tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7882996582229702442024-03-05T02:58:14.146-08:00Bike and BodyTrivia, Tips, and Tribulations from a bike fitter, Physical Therapist, runner, cyclist, and triathleteJohn Weirathhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03903543595887042170noreply@blogger.comBlogger95125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-30554757579780891782014-02-14T15:21:00.000-08:002014-02-14T15:21:07.371-08:00Triathlon Research: Bike intervals to improve your run? {} Do compression socks work?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Couple of interesting articles I came across, and while no research article is perfect and can tell the whole story, these provide some interesting information:<br />
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European Journal of Sport <span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 15.956525802612305px;">2013 Nov 9. (published online ahead of print)</span></div>
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High-intensity cycle interval training improves cycling and running <span class="highlight" style="background-color: #f2f5f8;">performance</span> in triathletes.<br /><a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Etxebarria%20N%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24206175" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Etxebarria N</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Anson%20JM%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24206175" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Anson JM</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Pyne%20DB%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24206175" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Pyne DB</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Ferguson%20RA%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24206175" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Ferguson RA</a>.</div>
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Subjects: 14 moderately trained triathletes</div>
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Pre- and Post-Test: </div>
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{1} 16 X 20sec bike sprints</div>
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{2} 1 hour bike time trial followed by a 5k run</div>
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Training Variable:</div>
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Subjects split into two groups; one group did 3 weeks of twice weekly SHORT intervals (9-11 X 10s, 20s, and 40s efforts) on the bike and the other had also 3 weeks of twice weekly LONG intervals (6-8 X 5min efforts) on the bike.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Results:</div>
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Both groups showed improvements in mean (average) power during the last 8 of the 16, 20sec cycle sprints. they also had lower heart rate, perceived exertion, and blood lactate during the 1-hour bike time trial. Only the LONG interval group showed substantial improvement in the 5k run following the bike.</div>
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Take-away: Triathletes should add some long interval efforts to their training to help on the bike......and the run</div>
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<br /></div>
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*****</div>
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<u>European Journal of Applied Physiology</u> 2013 Dec 13. [Epub ahead of print]<br />Compression stockings do not improve muscular <span class="highlight" style="background-color: #f2f5f8;">performance</span> during a half-ironman <span class="highlight" style="background-color: #f2f5f8;">triathlon</span> race.<br /><a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Del%20Coso%20J%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Del Coso J</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Areces%20F%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Areces F</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Salinero%20JJ%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Salinero JJ</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Gonz%C3%A1lez-Mill%C3%A1n%20C%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">González-Millán C</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Abi%C3%A1n-Vic%C3%A9n%20J%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Abián-Vicén J</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Soriano%20L%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Soriano L</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Ruiz%20D%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Ruiz D</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Gallo%20C%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Gallo C</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Lara%20B%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Lara B</a>, <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed?term=Calleja-Gonzalez%20J%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=24337671" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; color: #660066;">Calleja-Gonzalez J</a>.</div>
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Subjects:</div>
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36 experienced triathletes</div>
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Training Variable: Subjects split into two groups -- one that wore compression socks, and the other didn't for a half-iron distance event.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Pre- and Post-Test: </div>
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{1} Numerous blood markers -- myoglobin and creatine kinase among others</div>
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{2} Jump height</div>
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{3} Leg muscular power -- thru a counter-movement jump</div>
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{4} Perceived exertion</div>
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<br /></div>
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Results:</div>
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There was not a significant difference between the groups for the blood markers, jump height, muscular power, or perceived exertion.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Take-Away:</div>
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Compression socks may not provide any benefit in maintaining muscle function in half-iron distance races</div>
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I have a pair of compression socks that I've worn for some long workouts, and while I didn't notice anything huge, I wondered if my feet were a little more comfortable in my shoes after a long run with them.</div>
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Anyone care to share their personal experience here?</div>
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John Weirathhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03903543595887042170noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-51155422683892485192014-02-03T06:38:00.000-08:002014-02-14T15:31:08.023-08:00Dealing with plantar fasciitis<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I haven't been injured much. Probably the physical therapist in me keeps me in check a bit more than average and I've also always had pretty fair body awareness. <br />
<br />
The past four or five months, though, I've been dealing with a very stubborn plantar fasciitis. Normally a very consistent runner and cyclist -- I had been working out nearly every day doing one or the other or both for almost two decades. <br />
<br />
But the last 18 months have been much less consistent for me. New additions to the family and a growing small business have interfered, making workouts difficult. And I think that my lack of consistency has led to this injury. <br />
<br />
When you run every day, and have been for many weeks, months, or years, tendons and connective tissue are more resilient. On again off again schedules lead the soft tissues to go through more of a roller coaster -- those same tendons are not getting the input and so they're thinner and exhibit less tensile strength. Because of the weaker tissue, each workout creates a greater than average amount of tissue tears. There is also the inevitable weight gain as you work out less, which means more force on the tissues as well.<br />
<br />
It's ironic -- I've spent a career treating injured people and here I am somewhat foundering in the face of a recalcitrant injury.<br />
<br />
I'm improving each day and each week, and it seems that the healing has gone in stages.<br />
<br />
Stage 1: I can still run, and have no soreness afterwards. It's at night that I notice it and I wasn't paying enough attention to it so it worsened to the point that it did begin to hurt after runs (actually felt like someone had taken a hammer to the bottom of my foot after a run). I also now had soreness after a bike ride for the first time. Night time was the worst as I hobbled to the bathroom every time I stood up on it. At the end of this stage is when I began a hiatus from running to give my foot a chance at healing without continually causing inflammation.<br />
<br />
Stage 2: Aggressively stretching of the gastrocnemius muscle. This is PT 101 for plantar fascia issues, and it does help. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOk9kZ9trZ1UFfl7rfApBI3wm3BuDlwbGuC4J_NAwMSh_UtdVb4oGDg50RwrRcNuFGRT9cUZtXX4rmR6SSI1LZm_10mhUahxpXaXZqbZ_9zi-0AWlEXZPa2BGtjcM5zJFhwoeGHAFg1c1B/s1600/gastroc1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOk9kZ9trZ1UFfl7rfApBI3wm3BuDlwbGuC4J_NAwMSh_UtdVb4oGDg50RwrRcNuFGRT9cUZtXX4rmR6SSI1LZm_10mhUahxpXaXZqbZ_9zi-0AWlEXZPa2BGtjcM5zJFhwoeGHAFg1c1B/s1600/gastroc1.jpg" height="320" width="207" /></a>If my foot was sore during the day if I did one long (45 seconds) calf stretch on the stairs, I would be pain free -- for a while. I also invested in a Straussburg Sock, which is a comfortable night splint that holds your toes up to keep a consistent stretch on the plantar fascia. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDsy_9TZXHcXU7JqVJYpjxbeuh8g60b0Sw7IDO1P4iVeEQB7zdtsUcrj8NDKvqCAaGS8GJbYdBgPei7l2x2K5WGbhZGNxDeEb7TkEKjO3KiEACbwVF5mUew-SUDTtwgI8D-f_59Zn-az1a/s1600/straussburg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDsy_9TZXHcXU7JqVJYpjxbeuh8g60b0Sw7IDO1P4iVeEQB7zdtsUcrj8NDKvqCAaGS8GJbYdBgPei7l2x2K5WGbhZGNxDeEb7TkEKjO3KiEACbwVF5mUew-SUDTtwgI8D-f_59Zn-az1a/s1600/straussburg.jpg" /></a></div>
This approach helped for a while. It helped me get the symptoms under control -- no more pain on on the bike -- and while it got me close to running, I wasn't able to keep symptoms under control so the running hiatus persisted.<br />
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Stage 3: Hip mobility. I was getting more diligent with my stretching overall. For most of my athletic career I was a dedicated stretcher, but as my life got busier, and there were more demands on my time, stretching was bumped down the priority list. This injury motivated me to get back to my previous good habits. I noticed one day stretching, that if I stretched my hip adductors and hip flexors (which are common areas hit with some of the Warrior poses in yoga) I could eliminate my foot pain entirely<br />
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Stage 4: Neurological effect. Another day stretching revealed something that would also completely rid me of acute symptoms. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdGehEmdAmZTJlEZmeXnDA-Jeta5xeGrbW4XZHfW3aRA7XMC05iKSscb3x0pr4Fh-KQeurFaUSSaXK1Gvj2REG33-rZQ5JEhhqpuEkq1LVUTmeoDDbJPp9OucLFJn9nNei9d4FtCmd6Ool/s1600/TowelStretch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdGehEmdAmZTJlEZmeXnDA-Jeta5xeGrbW4XZHfW3aRA7XMC05iKSscb3x0pr4Fh-KQeurFaUSSaXK1Gvj2REG33-rZQ5JEhhqpuEkq1LVUTmeoDDbJPp9OucLFJn9nNei9d4FtCmd6Ool/s1600/TowelStretch.jpg" height="192" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bring the leg up (as pictured but not quite as far) and then<br />
across the body, keeping toes pulled up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If I did a neural tension stretch on my leg, my heal pain would disappear. A neural tension stretch is exactly what it sounds like -- the leg is put in a position that doesn't stretch the muscles and tendons as much as it puts the nerve in a fully lengthened or tensioned position. When you do this stretch correctly you'll get some annoying, sharp, sometimes burning or buzzing sensations down your leg and into your foot. These are typical nerve sensations, and you have to be careful not to over-do it, but it can be really effective. Again I was amazed at how quick and effective this was at relieving acute symptoms. Moreover I could feel the foot improving long tern with this -- I wasn't just temporarily relieving acute pains. I began to run a little in this phase. Never two days in a row -- actually only twice a week -- and only about 15-20 minutes at a time, but at least I was starting. <br />
<br />
Stage 5: Aggressive soft tissue massage. How aggressive? I use a golf ball and, sitting on a carpeted floor, use both hands to press my foot into the ball and roll the foot around to hit different sore spots. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ZeEqsgu3sCY4ir3_31WNKbWXbRNZvmMtdLZk1rvEzvsSHpySbmTljARKXF0i82YpTgO6YdYv-ig_i_FlcH6U04pR5V3fFz_to8Cz95VVyUl64-OzxvYDi9f1OoMue53uPvcCD2sWIXK4/s1600/golf+ball.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ZeEqsgu3sCY4ir3_31WNKbWXbRNZvmMtdLZk1rvEzvsSHpySbmTljARKXF0i82YpTgO6YdYv-ig_i_FlcH6U04pR5V3fFz_to8Cz95VVyUl64-OzxvYDi9f1OoMue53uPvcCD2sWIXK4/s1600/golf+ball.jpg" height="149" width="200" /></a></div>
When I find a really sore spot I stay on it and oscillate back and forth on it. I generally try to cause as much pain as I can tolerate. After about a minute or two of this torture, then I bend the foot and toes up with ,y hands and hold a stretch for about 30 seconds. Then repeat a couple times. I might do this 2 or 3 times a day and especially before or after runs. I still have pain but this work has really helped me manage symptoms after runs. If I stay consistent with my golf ball I can run an hour or more and have little to no tightness or pain at night.<br />
<br />
So this is where I'm at right now. I think I'm on the way to full recovery, but I have to stay on top of things. I've carried forward all the treatments from previous stages. So while I don't do quite as many neural tension stretched or hip mobilizations, I still work them in every week.<br />
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That's it for now -- I've been sitting at this laptop long enough. I'm off to stretch and golfball my foot....</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-9591826899004563702014-01-16T09:28:00.000-08:002014-01-16T09:28:40.180-08:00What training should I do over the winter?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the more frequent questions I get is what an athlete should do in the off season over the winter?<br />
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Doesn't matter the sport -- runners, cyclists, triathletes -- it can be confusing when to start ("should I be doing trainer intervals on Thanksgiving?) , how much training to do ("my friend is putting in 18 hours in early January"), and what type (should a cyclist be only on-the-bike, a runner only run?) you should focus on.<br />
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The first question you need to answer is, are you doing your sport for a living? If you're a pro or an aspiring pro then I think it is pretty obvious, you'll likely be best served by starting earlier, getting in some decent hours in the dead of winter, and spending around half your time specifically working in your sport. Which isn't to say that pros can't have some fun. On the contrary, this time of year I tell my athletes to go skiing if they want, go on vacation and learn to surf, jump on a snow bike and do some fun fat tire races, hit the weight room, go to the pool -- doing something different can be incredibly helpful. Mixed in correctly, cross training can work on weaknesses, refresh the body and mind, and build some off season foundation strength on which to start the new season. But there's no doubt that an athlete who depends on the paycheck from their races ought to get serious sooner rather than later.<br />
<br />
If you're like most of us, and your mortgage doesn't depend on how you place at your races this coming year, then there's a lot of leeway.<br />
<br />
So some additional questions you can ask yourself:<br />
<br />
How familiar are you with your intended race(s)? <br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>If you've competed at the distance in the past then you might be able to get away with easing into the season. If you've done multiple iron-distance races in the last few years and you plan to take it easy this season and stick to 70.3s in July and August, then starting to get serious in March (or even April) is do-able.</li>
</ul>
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<br />
What was your motivation like toward the end of your season this past year?<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>If you had a tough time getting out for workouts in August and September because you'd been going hard for months and just didn't feel like it, then take that as a cue that you may have started too early. Many endurance athletes get motivated early and hit the ground running (literally) early in the season and are burned out by August. Having low motivation in the middle of summer is a severe hamper to the late season and fall races.</li>
</ul>
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<br />
Do you have some weaknesses to work on?<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>A great way to get a head start is to spend some of the dormant winter months working on weaknesses. Are you a triathlete who needs to cut some time off your swim? Then spend January in the pool working on your form. A road racer who had some knee issues this past season? Go see a specialist and work on your mechanics on and off the bike.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
How early are your key races?<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>If you've got a big iron distance triathlon or ultra-run in early May or even April, you're going to want to get moving early in the year.....perhaps even in November/December if the race distance is new to you.</li>
</ul>
<div>
One common situation I walk athletes through is dealing with a big early race and a big race in the late summer. This is especially challenging for long distance triathletes and runners, because of the overall impact those races have on the body. Bike-specific races are much easier to recover from, so cyclists can generally race much more often.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
For a triathlete, though, having to peak in mid-April or early May and then again in August may be a tall order, and few people can start in January, build up to May, recover briefly and then immediately begin building again all the way to August. It's just too much. A simple solution is to take a longer break after the early race. Take an extra week or two and ease back into the training. <br />
<br />
For instance, if your races are May 1st and August 1st, get thru the May race and take a good week or so off. You could then begin to do easy workouts just to get the legs moving, but try to keep your efforts easy for another week or two. The tricky part is working enough to keep your system primed, but not enough to be adding any fatigue. This mild "vacation" after the first race should leave you chomping at the bit to get back to work (and if it doesn't then you might need a bit more time off) to prep for race #2.<br />
<br />
In general, I find it's best to err on the side of caution. Starting too early or going hard too soon can lead to injury and burnout. Have fun over your off season and experiment with different sports -- keep it fun. You can enjoy a new sport, and ensure that you're still enjoying yourself during the dog days of summer as well.</div>
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<br /></div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-90658841998276120892013-10-28T15:09:00.002-07:002013-10-28T15:09:38.641-07:00Lenz Sport "Fatmoth": freak of the week....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>...well, not really a freak. But not something you see often.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
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And if you're at all familiar with this bike's author, Mike Curiak, you'll know that every aspect was agonized over and refined (much to the chagrin of it's builder, Devin Lenz) until the bike was ready to do everything it was built for.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0TpozinZbEny5BWXtdlHBaI9co1iNThiHC7HHXQs-zhIS7cepDCNAeUgfG2134BJXioI6vkO92a1PirtudjF8gZYSrBl0XRT8yX02rPmiD5aL9KA_QgPPUX-pS3OTus8p6nAwKH-ewuUj/s1600/DSC_0221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0TpozinZbEny5BWXtdlHBaI9co1iNThiHC7HHXQs-zhIS7cepDCNAeUgfG2134BJXioI6vkO92a1PirtudjF8gZYSrBl0XRT8yX02rPmiD5aL9KA_QgPPUX-pS3OTus8p6nAwKH-ewuUj/s400/DSC_0221.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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So, what, pray was it built for? Specifically, as a bike-packing rig that would be able to access any trail from hardpack doubletrack to the softest loam beside the rivers and creeks of our western states.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUbC5IkdiAXp7LllS_0W7rwXhtmTpJVabdo3hLqdFYBv4rtxZ00HNb6OqqE0zOKIeL_7Xs2wc4G2ZdxmD_xaUyi2M8V1jVqcLYyrVEOZwOv5FFZ0CuVAgpLzPU3EGSPqbxFiXoYTiM0m8/s1600/DSC_0223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUbC5IkdiAXp7LllS_0W7rwXhtmTpJVabdo3hLqdFYBv4rtxZ00HNb6OqqE0zOKIeL_7Xs2wc4G2ZdxmD_xaUyi2M8V1jVqcLYyrVEOZwOv5FFZ0CuVAgpLzPU3EGSPqbxFiXoYTiM0m8/s400/DSC_0223.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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First more on the bike: you'll notice the wheels and tires look....substantial. they are in fact based on the 29+ movement that Surly started with their Krampus. For those unfamiliar, those are 29er rims (and everything is set up tubeless in this case) and the tires are 3.0 inches wide -- about a full half inch wider than the biggest downhill-specific tire out there. The extra air volume allows for lower pressures, which in turn makes it easy to ride on soft sand where a standard mountain bike would squirm and wash out.</div>
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The frame is based off Lenz's Mammoth platform......5.0-5.5 inches of travel, a burlier top half of the frame (based on the Behemoth and Lunchbox iterations) and a more XC lower half (based on the Leviathan).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWTn1yuW47ACF0gJxfLJHVePP3qURshHyrSlXOau4IHMO-9VzA7fbofGmJrIz2CWXEwRbNcETPv3cWvR1jgT4v6qjpu6NPG0-w_XQNzybLugqHYHZGl4VppBm0B5ZeiCXt9-rdvc9oDSA/s1600/DSC_0224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWTn1yuW47ACF0gJxfLJHVePP3qURshHyrSlXOau4IHMO-9VzA7fbofGmJrIz2CWXEwRbNcETPv3cWvR1jgT4v6qjpu6NPG0-w_XQNzybLugqHYHZGl4VppBm0B5ZeiCXt9-rdvc9oDSA/s400/DSC_0224.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Set up with an 11-speed setup from SRAM.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbCxYrxrkzaOG6PqZlv2nM_ZmvW3w6mnGVKSspdnNBB6woSurmTpOX-iVldy6IE8f-ajzDvj_7BIaFM1rVUDSwIliLyoDLluk1V99JlTprYtQ20ALqi0ShGALCrtD9esveiZ_VAdaO25q/s1600/DSC_0226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbCxYrxrkzaOG6PqZlv2nM_ZmvW3w6mnGVKSspdnNBB6woSurmTpOX-iVldy6IE8f-ajzDvj_7BIaFM1rVUDSwIliLyoDLluk1V99JlTprYtQ20ALqi0ShGALCrtD9esveiZ_VAdaO25q/s400/DSC_0226.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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So why would you want a bike that will access these soft trail when tons of prime singletrack exists right out the front door? Well, the answer lies in what's strapped to the handlebars......look close. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPka7P-LFX6ork8jekLxfYtEq0eHvFbSPZ_8t4cbKoRDIPnZ8d2Nbek3kTlReyS3AiRBDYD4sDEkvbg0GLbj02sLuYJVSICZeBYkS99_fjHz9YkugiexEdQZt53NLZEQus2gY_1b7Hzu74/s1600/DSC_0227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPka7P-LFX6ork8jekLxfYtEq0eHvFbSPZ_8t4cbKoRDIPnZ8d2Nbek3kTlReyS3AiRBDYD4sDEkvbg0GLbj02sLuYJVSICZeBYkS99_fjHz9YkugiexEdQZt53NLZEQus2gY_1b7Hzu74/s400/DSC_0227.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Yep, that's a boat.</div>
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You can just make out the carbon fiber paddle handle peeking out the side.</div>
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The idea is that you can ride a section of trail, put in on the river, float for a while until you hit the next section of trail and ride some more. Sound contrived? Not really. This type of bike-packing allows you to ride and connect sections of trail and plan an A-to-B-to-C trip that lets you cover previously out of reach sections of trail.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmtmsp-zfxIWbv-TBRRJex8Mcs90Nqfhc7wy_dHLLrChn2AXT6LDICa26tA5dHawxU9BUn6P6iU-BbBZaAR2uzipFjQPc40ZlnhiTanavOF2g3Na4ytjldQ8O9nj4vudwsmw5QjWipY0l/s1600/DSC_0229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmtmsp-zfxIWbv-TBRRJex8Mcs90Nqfhc7wy_dHLLrChn2AXT6LDICa26tA5dHawxU9BUn6P6iU-BbBZaAR2uzipFjQPc40ZlnhiTanavOF2g3Na4ytjldQ8O9nj4vudwsmw5QjWipY0l/s400/DSC_0229.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
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So this is an interesting piece. These bars pre-date this bike, but they're no less unique. In the plastic squeeze bottle is alcohol -- as in rubbing alcohol. Yes, the alcohol is being fed into the end of the handlebars. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaz-FbCufNjc6orbzLro8eduvGVt5bMWT-G8oA9jJgWHui1tQiEmi-kVttbA0kuV5SyvPtqzd4hOTYS8FEkPKD3clS3NiqIZ72x1fPJkvX7LjjrJMkan6110B1Y9SZsW6ZlFjeLmfysrNc/s1600/DSC_0230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaz-FbCufNjc6orbzLro8eduvGVt5bMWT-G8oA9jJgWHui1tQiEmi-kVttbA0kuV5SyvPtqzd4hOTYS8FEkPKD3clS3NiqIZ72x1fPJkvX7LjjrJMkan6110B1Y9SZsW6ZlFjeLmfysrNc/s400/DSC_0230.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
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About three of these bottles is enough to light his custom stove for three days for meals and hot drinks. The bars are titanium and have a special port welded into the side to safely hold and dispense the fuel as needed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilW6VoIcM99isBBgbH1MilXAOCfyVlTzWh5mLPdAmOiuOEA39yH9UqR9ZUFRydqP-JOjvkVNYFvB3H1kQLWpMM01Vlcjac55oESwTamxkWTDCKEbOK8AlPPnr0vZRvE3QRdTHHV-B14A2U/s1600/DSC_0232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilW6VoIcM99isBBgbH1MilXAOCfyVlTzWh5mLPdAmOiuOEA39yH9UqR9ZUFRydqP-JOjvkVNYFvB3H1kQLWpMM01Vlcjac55oESwTamxkWTDCKEbOK8AlPPnr0vZRvE3QRdTHHV-B14A2U/s400/DSC_0232.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Believe it or not, that's the stove. I don't think I'm allowed to give the schematics for that one, but it is probably the simplest camp stoves I have ever seen.</div>
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So there you have it. A bike (and not even the first or second in this particular stable) that will likely see more saddle time than my bikes see in a month.</div>
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-88012691565494030222013-10-20T16:28:00.000-07:002013-10-20T16:28:26.057-07:00Building a Seven Axiom SL...and making it fully custom<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">"The right tool for the job...choosing every part to make the bike fully custom"</span><br />
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I make no secret about the fact that the part of my job that I enjoy the most is building a fully custom bike for a client from the ground up. There's something special about choosing each individual part for a specific reason -- making every part go to work and solve some problem for that particular client. In addition to that, designing a frame where every tube, every joint, and every feature is decided upon based on the client's wants and needs.<br />
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It can be hard to see what I mean when talking abstractly about "some client" and "some bike". So to elucidate better, I'm going to go through a recently built bike and tell you about the bike in detail and what each part "does" for the rider it was built for.<br />
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So here is the bike -- a custom-sized Seven Axiom SL with custom raked Seven 5E fork.<br />
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<b><i>A bit about the frame itself: A fully custom Seven Axiom SL frameset should tick a number of boxes --</i></b> </div>
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<li>The <b>frame geometry</b> should allow the rider to have their contact points (saddle, pedals and handlebars) in their most comfortable and efficient position. This is the bare minimum that a custom builder should be doing for their client -- otherwise a stock, off-the-shelf bike would be providing the same benefit, although I'm constantly surprised of the number of new "custom" bikes I see in my studio for bike fitting services, that have suspiciously stock-looking geometry (and an uncomfortable cyclist on them to boot)</li>
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<li>Needless to say every tube length and angle on a Seven bike that I am involved with designing is agonized over to make sure it will allow my client their best fit now, AND ten years from now (after all, most of us are slowly changing in our fit parameters)</li>
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<li><b>Tube selection</b> and <b>butting/layup schedule</b> should be matched to the rider: Metal bikes (titanium and steel) can be butted -- or have material removed from each tube to make that tube be more flexible or stiff in a given direction. Starting with the proper tube selection (i.e. a larger rider is going to need tubes with either a greater diameter and/or thicker walls) is key and then the fabricators need to intelligently butt and miter those tubes so they match the rider's size and desired bike characteristics. Carbon bikes are made differently -- tubes and joints are created by laying uni-directional carbon fabric (think cloth where all the fibers run the same direction) down in particular sequence and pattern. In a very basic explanation, if a tube has fibers running every direction but one, the tube will be more likely to flex in that direction.</li>
<li>Customized fork rake: this is the often over-looked secret weapon for a custom bike. When done right (and this means meshing perfectly with the frame geometry) the right fork will make the balance and handling of the bike absolutely sublime. It will respond predictably but effortlessly to its rider making them feel confident and stable at any speed and on any terrain. Get the fork wrong and you end up with a poorly balanced, ill-fitting bike that doesn't corner well and often has a speed-wobble.</li>
<li>Accessories: These are characteristics or add-ins we can put on a bike to make it do everything the client wants it to do.</li>
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<li>Does the client do long rides and not like to wear a hydration pack? Then three or more water bottle mounts may be necessary. </li>
<li>Are they a bigger rider that lives in very mountainous area? Disc brakes may make descending safer and more confidence-inspiring (yep, even on a road bike)</li>
<li>Do they want to travel all over the world with their bike? Then S&S couplers, that allow the bike to break into two pieces and fit in an airline-approved suitcase, may be the ticket</li>
<li>This client thought she might do some light touring at some point in the future, so we put rack mounts on the frame -- they don't add much weight, nor do they get in the way so why not?</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple little upper rack mounts above the brakes<br />
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<b><i>On to the wheels......they're Stan's No Tubes Alpha 340 series, tubeless ready wheels with Hutchinson Intensive tubeless tires.</i></b></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Why we used them: The area this client rides in -- western Colorado -- has a lot of thorns (the most troublesome are "goatheads" that spring from roadside weeds) and while it's not uncommon for riders to go through long periods of flat-free existence, equally common are horrendous rides with 3 or 4 flat tires in the span of 10 miles. The Stan's No Tubes tubeless wheelsets are great for their flat resistance -- my No Tubes mountain setups have been flat free for many months -- but I've not found the road wheels to be the most stout, so I think their most effective use is under riders that don't tip the scale over about 160 pounds. My client was a good three to four dozen pounds under this threshold, though, so I knew they would work well.</span></div>
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<b><i>Handlebars: In this case we went with FSA Wing Pro Compact.</i></b> </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Why we used it: This is a great little handlebar for little hands. Also, it has a decent flattened section on the tops which, when oriented right, provide a lot of hand positions. I recommend this bar often when smaller riders want some shape to their bar, but don't want to spend an extra $300 on a set of ENVEs or 3Ts (my two favorite high dollar bars -- because they're strong and comfortable and really take full advantage of carbon as a material. Many carbon bars end up having little weight savings or ride-quality improvement over a well made aluminum bar because of the way they're laid up).</span></div>
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<b><i>Grouppo: Shimano Ultegra (10 speed)</i></b></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Why we used it: 11 speed wasn't yet available when this bike went into production, and given the option we probably would have gone with it, but it wasn't, so there. This client test rode some Shimano and SRAM equipped bikes I loaned her and preferred the feel of the two lever shifting system on the Shimano. Even though the SRAM is lighter, she just didn't fall in love with the Double-Tap system of the SRAM -- just personal preference; nothing more.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We went with 170mm cranks -- she is a smaller rider and according to her bike fit, among the readily available crank lengths, this length proved to be most efficient. Is this the most efficient length for her? Potentially....I know, not a resounding endorsement, but until crankarm selection becomes common from ~150 mm to ~210 mm (without spending a fortune) we have to make do with what we have. Not everyone is ready to pay $800+ for custom crank arms.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The gearing included a compact front chainring and an 11-28 cassette in back. This was nearly identical to the gearing she had on her old bike. But an interesting thing happened. Once we built the bike and she rode it for a few weeks, she found that the compact crankset no longer felt right. She felt like she wanted more gear nearly all the time. She wasn't particularly well-balanced on her old bike, which was a main reason for her going custom (and this tends to be very common especially among my clients that are under 5'4" -- it can be exceptionally difficult to find a bike that provides the proper fit coordinates as well as balances the client's weight appropriately over the bike) and once we did build a bespoke frameset for her, and then outiftted it with parts that would nail her fit coordinates AND compliment her riding style, she simply rode stronger and more efficiently. This was not the first time this has happened, and one unfortunate side-effect was the need for a new crankset. Certainly not a cheap part, so I got her the standard crankset at a severe discount. She decided to keep the compact crankset on hand in case she had a really long tour or race rather than have me sell it for her and deduct further from her cost on the new one. </span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">This is probably the hardest customization to predict -- when an improvement in bike fit will create a need to "gear up". Also, it can be a tough sell -- imagine telling a client "No I think you're going to want to change the gearing you've had for years because the new custom bike will immediately make you more powerful and efficient" -- sounds a bit too much like a sales line. If the new bike is going to be built for a different task -- like touring -- then it's relatively easy to recommend a gearing change, but predicting the <i><b><u>degree</u></b></i> of benefit someone gets from a custom build is a bit like reading tea leaves, because it can't be easily or effectively tested without being on the custom frame already.</span></div>
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<b><i>Seatpost: Seven custom titanium setback post</i></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4N4HvDvHkfhyphenhyphenZ5wCTBo_uXkE-LNqRNwbijIGdRFMhkY3K61F5xHa57ituCn-FvB7wdOx7t_bs6vjwfhkSvxbJmbGWJ1lnPt5KQXjJhxfHJWMJSlTr_5o2eNgoKJJzWyg1KUy0837-Fc4S/s1600/IMG_3567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4N4HvDvHkfhyphenhyphenZ5wCTBo_uXkE-LNqRNwbijIGdRFMhkY3K61F5xHa57ituCn-FvB7wdOx7t_bs6vjwfhkSvxbJmbGWJ1lnPt5KQXjJhxfHJWMJSlTr_5o2eNgoKJJzWyg1KUy0837-Fc4S/s320/IMG_3567.JPG" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Why we used it: A titanium post can work wonders on the comfort and ride feel of any bike, no matter what material the bike is made of. BUT, in my experience, you'll get a lot more out of it, if you have a decent length of seatpost sticking out of the frame. About 6 inches (~15.25 cm) of seatpost from the saddle rail clamp down to the top of the seat tube is a reasonable starting point. Less than that and you likely won't get the nice compliance the titanium provides. </span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">When this bike was first designed, it became clear that given her optimal saddle height we would have at least this amount so we went ahead with the Ti post.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">If we hadn't had enough post length could we have modified the geometry of the frame to for more post? Well, we did modify the geometry to account for the setback nature of the post, but modifying a frame design for more seatpost length will affect the standover, the top tube slope (which in turn changes how the head tube is welded or molded into the bike), and will affect how water bottles fit inside the frame. Not insurmountable problems, but ones that could be greater than just not having a titanium post.</span></div>
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A few notes: </div>
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-- in the pictures, you may notice that we have 3cm of (titanium) spacers under the stem and a couple mm of spacers on top. I usually start a client a bit higher in their position and then we slowly lower them into position over the course of their follow up fit appointments. I've found it's a much smoother process when we start high and work our way down with bar position. Will we always need those spacers? Perhaps not, but if we don't we can always cut more steerer off later and remove some spacers -- can't add them back if we cut too much the first time. It's typical for me, and should be "best practice" at every bike shop, to start with as long a steerer as allowed at first.</div>
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-- the clamp on the Seven seatpost is great. It has two bolts on the head: loosen one and you can control saddle fore/aft, loosen the other and you can control tilt. The adjustments are independent of one another, which makes fine tuning saddle fit a breeze.</div>
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So that's the long and short of it. Many hundreds of tiny decisions, all having to be made with rider fit and efficiency kept in mind all the while</div>
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-85235562660880270092013-09-25T17:58:00.001-07:002013-09-25T18:04:43.959-07:00Disappearing Bikes: what happened to all the bike sizes?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"Duh" would be an appropriate response to me saying that most of the bike industry is given over to carbon. Clearly that's the case, and we've benefited by getting lighter and occasionally more comfortable frames and components.</span></div>
<b id="docs-internal-guid-73d61033-57c5-11ed-f919-5edb1ea7c4e8" style="font-weight: normal;"><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Did ya ever wonder what, if anything, we lost or gave up?</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bikes that's fit well</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bike manufacturers, like any other business, always want to save money and increase their profit margin. Carbon molds, from which the bikes are made, are expensive, so making fewer molds saves money. Fewer molds means fewer sizes </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Stock (as in non-custom) manufacturers say they can fit 85%-90% of the population, and while it’s technically true that they make bikes that fit people from 5’1” to 6’”4”, and it’s technically true that 85%-90% of the population is within this height range, what it doesn’t say is that there are more people falling between sizes because there just aren’t that many of them. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not too long ago many (but certainly not all) manufacturers made bikes from 48cm to 62cm in 1-2 cm increments (so 7 - 14 sizes). Sound like overkill? A great side benefit of this was that if someone was sold a bike that was the wrong size, which of course did happen, it wouldn’t be off by much. Now, with so few sizes, when your local shop gets it wrong, which still happens a lot, it’s a much bigger problem. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In fact I see many clients, that are generally very average in their height, arm reach, flexibility, etc and there still isn’t a good stock option for them…..none of the sizes are a good match. “Custom bike for them!” you say? True, but there used to be a time when custom bikes were necessary for the very tall, the very short, or someone with a unique physical attribute that required custom adjustment (of course there is always the sage individual who understood all the benefits of a bespoke bike and just wanted one). Now, however, custom bikes are being made more and more often for riders who just happen to be in-between sizes.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The trend of fewer sizes carries into the forks that are made as well. Carbon forks come from carbon molds, so making fewer fork molds saves money too. Making only one or two fork rakes to fit all the sizes of a bike model often makes for some sketchy handling. Frame and fork need to work hand in hand with one another and if a less than ideal fork size is used just because it’s convenient, it can lead to some very poor handling. If your bike doesn't feel stable when you descend, or you're unable to ride no-handed you might be experiencing some of this.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The largest factors involved in how a bike handles in order of importance are:</span></div>
<ol style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; list-style-type: decimal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">the fit of the bike - fit determines weight distribution and how your body weight “drapes” over the bike</span></div>
</li>
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; list-style-type: decimal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">proper front axle placement - if your fork rake is off or not ideal then your bike will feel either twitchy/sketchy (i.e. it deviates off a straight line too easily) or too ponderous (it’s difficult to get into and out of a turning radius)</span></div>
</li>
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; list-style-type: decimal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">bottom bracket drop - think of this controlling how high your center of mass is while you sit on the bike. Smaller bikes will generally have lower bottom brackets (therefore more drop). </span></div>
</li>
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; list-style-type: decimal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">proper rear axle placement - chainstay length is the main determinant here, and generally, bigger bikes should have longer chainstays so that the high saddle position of taller riders doesn’t cantilever their weight way out behind their rear axle. </span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So here are some numbers from some of the larger manufacturers. This is by no means a comprehensive list, but rather, I tried to survey the most popular bike models among these brands.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Trek - Men’s: up to 7 sizes and 2 different forks, 3 bottom bracket drops; Women’s: 6 sizes, 1 fork, 1 chainstay length, (effectively) 1 bottom bracket drop </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Overall grade: 7.5/10</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Trek does make some women’s WSD bikes with more sizes, but when you look at the geometry like Domane and Madone WSD models, their geometry doesn’t vary from the men’s bikes in any meaningful way -- so…..they’re not really made </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">for</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> women.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Note: When I mention “effectively 1 chainstay” it just means that technically there is a second size but it is so small a difference that renders it basically irrelevant.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cannondale - Men’s: 6-8 sizes, 1-2 forks, (effectively) 1 chainstay length, 3 bottom brackets drops (but barely) ; Women’s: 5 sizes, 2 forks, 1 chainstay, 1 bottom bracket drop </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Overall Grade: 6.5/10</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Specialized - Men’s: 5-6 sizes, 1-2 forks, 2-3 chainstay lengths, 3 bottom brackets; Women’s: 5 sizes, 2 forks, 2-3 chainstay (effectively) 1 bottom bracket drop </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Overall Grade: 6.5/10</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Giant - Men’s: 6 sizes, no information on forks, 1 chainstay; Women’s: 3-4 sizes, no info on forks, 1 chainstay </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Overall Grade: 4/10</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Felt - Men’s: 6 sizes, 3 forks, 4 chainstay lengths, (effectively) 1 bottom bracket drop; Women’s: 4 sizes, 1 fork, 2 chainstay lengths, 1-2 bottom bracket drops </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Overall Grade: 7/10</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Note: I figured someone would ask “well, what about Wilier?” since that’s the main stock brand I carry. If you consider me putting this in here to be spam, then feel free to skip past it, I won’t mind. Otherwise, here you go:</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wilier - Men’s: 6 sizes, 3 forks, 5-6 chainstay lengths, 3-4 bottom bracket drops; Women’s: 3 sizes, 2 forks, 1 chainstay, 1 bottom bracket drop </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Overall Grade: 8.5/10</span></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 10pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I broke things up into Men’s and Women’s flavors here for illustrative purposes. The idea of a women’s specific bike, as in “are women’s specific bikes even necessary?” is another blog post unto itself. As you can guess, I don’t think they are necessary, so my bias led me to not weight the poor geometry available among the brands too heavily against them.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I’m not a complete curmudgeon. I do think that there are huge benefits to today’s bikes…..if you’re the right size. The advancement in components alone are worth the price of admission. I think there’s work to be done, though…..</span></div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-2927007106794982302013-09-11T16:07:00.006-07:002013-09-11T16:07:58.242-07:00Made-to-order bikes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Not every made-to-order bike is a custom bike but every custom bike is made to order.<br />
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Sometimes I have a client that wants that wants to build a bike but the off the shelf varieties don't cut the mustard, and they have a budget in mind as well. Because it's not going to be a custom bike (defined as a frame entirely designed in every aspect of geometry, materials, and aesthetic for a single individual) the client knows there will be some compromises -- usually in fit but also potentially in ride quality, handling, etc.<br />
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In this case, what was required was a light-duty mountain bike (mostly jeep roads and some light single-track) that would travel around the country on an RV. She wanted a rack on the back so that she could get some groceries if needed; flip-flop pedals (one side clip; one side flats) so she could ride around without her bike shoes, a wired computer (she'd had bad luck with wireless models), and tubeless wheels (she really disliked getting flat tires).<br />
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None of this bike came assembled -- each piece was ordered individually and each piece was purposely chosen to satisfy either cost, fit, or function.<br />
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It's simple, and not flashy, but it works well together. More importantly it ticks all the boxes. Thanks for reading....<br />
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-86344078015259836432013-08-19T08:46:00.004-07:002013-08-19T08:46:55.078-07:00Getting Ultegra shift levers set up evenly on 3T Ergonova Pro handlebar<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is one of those problems that I'd file under a "Nuisance" because some riders won't notice while others can feel a millimeter discrepancy immediately. I hate it when shifter hoods are set up unevenly. Often the difference isn't much, but it seems like such a rookie bike building mistake -- unless you've ever built a bike from the ground up in which case you know how hard it can be, with some bars, to get the shifters in exactly the same place.<br />
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Here's my little trick to a perfectly balanced shifter position:<br />
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Take one of the shifters and slide them on the bar into where you think you want them positioned. <br />
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Don't worry, we can go back and move both of them if you'd realize you estimated poorly the first time. If you want to be more thorough you can put the bar on the bike and sit on it to get a more accurate first placement.<br />
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Once you have the first shifter in place and just lightly tightened, set the bar on a flat surface so the bottom of the lever blade props the bar up.<br />
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Then slide the other shifter onto the bar and move it up until both lever blades and both drops of the bar touch the flat surface evenly. <br />
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Test to make sure that all four points are touching in the same by lightly pressing on each drop in turn:<br />
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Just like with an uneven kitchen table, if things are off then one drop will rock when you press it. The rule of thumb is that whichever drop rocks -- that shifter needs to go down slightly (or the opposite shifter needs to go up).<br />
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And don't just rely on the few bars that have hash marks on them to help you line the shifters up -- often (as in the case with this bar) they can be off slightly.<br />
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Simple trick to dead even shifter position.....thanks for reading.</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-15440135492185947582013-07-30T13:20:00.000-07:002013-07-30T20:23:46.451-07:00K2's Seven Axiom SL<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBKo35tAy8IUfQEOoGZ2fE6HBR3JFmCfGWrPI5LcADc_TA7mV2372Xz3RsIoX_RYE7RhOCJfVnZGZrYJS4O1qxTLaKJ3yJznD9TM5I6s3xrMZvPFbwvw9mInA2qDk9PvSpeV2GNgwcIWo/s1600/IMG_3563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBKo35tAy8IUfQEOoGZ2fE6HBR3JFmCfGWrPI5LcADc_TA7mV2372Xz3RsIoX_RYE7RhOCJfVnZGZrYJS4O1qxTLaKJ3yJznD9TM5I6s3xrMZvPFbwvw9mInA2qDk9PvSpeV2GNgwcIWo/s640/IMG_3563.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Build: custom frame, custom fork, custom seatpost, Stan's tubeless Alpha 340 wheels, Shimano Ultegra</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YsZkn4IgXRNTj8TaL6fXDPX6um5OgJgThF6WVKiop70xiu6uZrbVdJIT197TyKCtEfxa8SJLMZh4DpiA4hyD-Fwoeddj06ojnKWU66v4mW4VdmRmwKvJtao719mDvq0cxHwTs3dnvggc/s1600/IMG_3564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YsZkn4IgXRNTj8TaL6fXDPX6um5OgJgThF6WVKiop70xiu6uZrbVdJIT197TyKCtEfxa8SJLMZh4DpiA4hyD-Fwoeddj06ojnKWU66v4mW4VdmRmwKvJtao719mDvq0cxHwTs3dnvggc/s640/IMG_3564.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paint is electric raspberry in "Pointed Panels"</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-aRoUxlSx3AIuvL7aJXi7ud2IAriIt3d9tGrEcKWDC98smmjPeW6R__RIt_Ggveu9TNNt-PACbqHxlzqDodFxNgo40urp4FPDxk49xx7cwNeB77JPOPkeFtPfLo41ArYlYnjpwem6_cr/s1600/IMG_3566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-aRoUxlSx3AIuvL7aJXi7ud2IAriIt3d9tGrEcKWDC98smmjPeW6R__RIt_Ggveu9TNNt-PACbqHxlzqDodFxNgo40urp4FPDxk49xx7cwNeB77JPOPkeFtPfLo41ArYlYnjpwem6_cr/s640/IMG_3566.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a little customization (and a pump peg!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzm0HqxzDOMXXXtFVlAv1IsTid2Gh6fGp2I6AR1ZyNsS4Sh1QSYL2gU21mJBSG8h-Y-kILh07ortKovbNwAqtvGIdUjqzReuTWVi62FyABpig3UbLZLwOCdh0GzSa0yAgGDHjGj7AzA1o/s1600/IMG_3567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzm0HqxzDOMXXXtFVlAv1IsTid2Gh6fGp2I6AR1ZyNsS4Sh1QSYL2gU21mJBSG8h-Y-kILh07ortKovbNwAqtvGIdUjqzReuTWVi62FyABpig3UbLZLwOCdh0GzSa0yAgGDHjGj7AzA1o/s640/IMG_3567.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">custom titanium seatpost</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4AKeDcfJh9hjN0aWjL8kzRhxl2bk__v_tZrpkaQ931XqNEMGiaIresDnj7tCnEinPbf-h4zBV-b7Xlw8U-mmHgmZ8hzxdcH1hR7zCyFVn8XLvjmLwfKVq7aNruVElArzYMf6kJ54E2_z/s1600/IMG_3568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4AKeDcfJh9hjN0aWjL8kzRhxl2bk__v_tZrpkaQ931XqNEMGiaIresDnj7tCnEinPbf-h4zBV-b7Xlw8U-mmHgmZ8hzxdcH1hR7zCyFVn8XLvjmLwfKVq7aNruVElArzYMf6kJ54E2_z/s640/IMG_3568.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris King headset and titanium spacers to boot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsjj_N6Kj1Copg7H4fmM_NmqAJcp5Q7EwqsslmZaUPDPWBNK3WhBIQjHkf1VEDGXgwijEEqy-NuWI0Bo_kDtW2x4AhaYVPtKW2EMZhPq5GuAz04HlVu1k7TYWVzEiIKJOD2SIWSvDfN6oR/s1600/IMG_3569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsjj_N6Kj1Copg7H4fmM_NmqAJcp5Q7EwqsslmZaUPDPWBNK3WhBIQjHkf1VEDGXgwijEEqy-NuWI0Bo_kDtW2x4AhaYVPtKW2EMZhPq5GuAz04HlVu1k7TYWVzEiIKJOD2SIWSvDfN6oR/s640/IMG_3569.JPG" width="360" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbREy6BoEp8vkZFQL-41TQn2gOGA9Uo4QdspohSacjb_L3YL545XQS-AO9XYaIcdVKzZA-DGigBx2SGJZJLph070CAoT69ss18229KhuaZnN3LyYhhhSn0mPSRwOaWFB3dbO6jJ9Gl77p/s1600/IMG_3570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbREy6BoEp8vkZFQL-41TQn2gOGA9Uo4QdspohSacjb_L3YL545XQS-AO9XYaIcdVKzZA-DGigBx2SGJZJLph070CAoT69ss18229KhuaZnN3LyYhhhSn0mPSRwOaWFB3dbO6jJ9Gl77p/s640/IMG_3570.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rack mounts (just in case the urge strikes for a credit card tour)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTmDmhPbLHWEJLMp78BlocACVi3WrXkQLslJP36IMnCQ9xBVGpStISaIUcQutkuGAwm7aIPAE_lchLxVvjCvJpqbMaI0fylXU2bYbfHFShA9G2OiHP-5w72w6X3JaC9NhFLetTk0yfNJKZ/s1600/IMG_3571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTmDmhPbLHWEJLMp78BlocACVi3WrXkQLslJP36IMnCQ9xBVGpStISaIUcQutkuGAwm7aIPAE_lchLxVvjCvJpqbMaI0fylXU2bYbfHFShA9G2OiHP-5w72w6X3JaC9NhFLetTk0yfNJKZ/s640/IMG_3571.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">head badge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJ6uPMmovLhcVyr3gQYMzaDkb4zEC3r0qTqNpvygwaxwF5BkkXOgZmURN6tYSK7YRZjjvhkm3ecafi8IYbRWraCetwy9Mr8bFfLiKcT9tJwZzZBV1wTBZKUMlBrnTgsELE8fxXkkioN3k/s1600/IMG_3572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJ6uPMmovLhcVyr3gQYMzaDkb4zEC3r0qTqNpvygwaxwF5BkkXOgZmURN6tYSK7YRZjjvhkm3ecafi8IYbRWraCetwy9Mr8bFfLiKcT9tJwZzZBV1wTBZKUMlBrnTgsELE8fxXkkioN3k/s640/IMG_3572.JPG" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwEwPn0qnBoZUcLd6N65OolncsjOLscQ38s6A-5WxPppVkfrhHKQASVCTDSp5S35Tw6tz4R3ZRzxejZFKjTu74o4agaQ_Hvd4s5x7SAJ1IJULSjgNoAOa1jsQFhG89ahGPZdpA4LhFFAn/s1600/IMG_3573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwEwPn0qnBoZUcLd6N65OolncsjOLscQ38s6A-5WxPppVkfrhHKQASVCTDSp5S35Tw6tz4R3ZRzxejZFKjTu74o4agaQ_Hvd4s5x7SAJ1IJULSjgNoAOa1jsQFhG89ahGPZdpA4LhFFAn/s640/IMG_3573.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEici_7fM_zq687aoFEKMtxtTVzf3SbLiAxLaMTH4Md36YD6c4rKOJI0M3ad0ja5wdZOWGZD4bZH6isgMwMnDhmWIdbF8J5Qy0vrrgy9ZaHSTs8zXhRKogTkDagPag0sBj0HJUzdFh6WU934/s1600/IMG_3574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEici_7fM_zq687aoFEKMtxtTVzf3SbLiAxLaMTH4Md36YD6c4rKOJI0M3ad0ja5wdZOWGZD4bZH6isgMwMnDhmWIdbF8J5Qy0vrrgy9ZaHSTs8zXhRKogTkDagPag0sBj0HJUzdFh6WU934/s640/IMG_3574.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not many people can pull off titanium welds like this</td></tr>
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-25171202406070648862013-04-17T14:44:00.000-07:002013-04-17T14:44:21.712-07:00To be or not to be....(on the fit-bike)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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A fit-bike or fit-cycle is a stationary bike that can be adjusted in just about any direction so that it can assume the position for a rider that's 6'6" or one that's 4'6". <br />
<br />
A fit-bike can be a useful tool to have as a bike fitter -- the "tubes" of the bike can be adjusted to almost any length to create a mock-up of a certain bike frame. I've had one for about 7 or 8 years now and I use it often. Mainly when I am helping someone find the right size bike to buy when they don't own a bike (I can mock-up a bike frame they're interested in to see if their optimal position is possible on it) or when I'm building a custom bike for someone (in which case we can craft the frame geometry to exact measurements that match their riding position perfectly). Aside from these situations, my fit-bike remains off to the side collecting dust, because most of the 200 or so bike fits I do every year, are performed with the client's bike hooked up to a stationary trainer so we can make changes, big and very small, to the actual bike and components that the person will be riding every day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2LWCuhw9J7t4pbJCHpYkVoP0IvtpN9vlpDbLUmUA0NFhPltMcjtDZ11SUMNb8ALr2cgkrh9uQZtHOnvexc_OvjOc7NMgyGkTXp4-Y1F4S_wqDCslpeLZtK0x4Hs09mOpkBPvBp1GUo7I4/s1600/IMG_3394.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2LWCuhw9J7t4pbJCHpYkVoP0IvtpN9vlpDbLUmUA0NFhPltMcjtDZ11SUMNb8ALr2cgkrh9uQZtHOnvexc_OvjOc7NMgyGkTXp4-Y1F4S_wqDCslpeLZtK0x4Hs09mOpkBPvBp1GUo7I4/s320/IMG_3394.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adjustable seat tube</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeFxqJVAir1XF3HNRtr-9TixTSZ6lrW63-JGroXghYMAVjvM7K8L44CuYgGTbEV786D1whiYOIbpXQXvW_2ixKIsIr6vsePnvE92GC9ZE6Bd4Px3tQOF73Pm_9KMToloDQBptitF_yfPvO/s1600/IMG_3395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeFxqJVAir1XF3HNRtr-9TixTSZ6lrW63-JGroXghYMAVjvM7K8L44CuYgGTbEV786D1whiYOIbpXQXvW_2ixKIsIr6vsePnvE92GC9ZE6Bd4Px3tQOF73Pm_9KMToloDQBptitF_yfPvO/s320/IMG_3395.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">adjustable top tube</td></tr>
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<br />
Some bike shops have begun to use their fit-bikes to fit all their clients -- even those that are getting a fit on their current bike. So rather than putting the client's own bike up on a stationary trainer and making changes to it, the shop will set up the client on the fit-bike and change the set up (remember they're infinitely adjustable) until the shops deems the new position correct (how they do this and what knowledge/experience they bring to the table to make this determination is an article unto itself)<br />
<br />
On the surface it seems like it might be a good way obtain the ideal, the best, the most efficient, most comfortable position for the client on a bike (assuming the fitter knows what they're doing).<br />
<br />
But this method of fitting falls short on a number of fronts.<br />
<br />
First, their bike may not be able to attain this "ideal" position, so while the new position is great, it bears no usefulness to them in he real world -- hence, why I use the fit cycle only when the client is intent on getting a new bike. <br />
<br />
By far the biggest negative to doing all fittings on a fit cycle is that the client won't have exactly the same contact points (saddle, bars/hoods, pedals/cranks) as on the bike they're actually going to ride. Good bike fitting comes down to changes millimeters at a time often -- ask any of the hundreds of clients I see that have only very small modifications done to their bike with dramatic effect, and they'll tell you that even very small differences can have a monumental effect. Now take a fit cycle that has a different saddle on it than the one you're riding and you're setting yourself up for trouble. Even if a very conscientious fitter puts <b>your</b> saddle on there, you have to ask, what about the bar? What about the hoods? Are they the same shifter hoods exactly? The difference between SRAM, Shimano, and Campagnolo in ergonomics and form are enough different that fitting you on one and then trying to match those measurements to your existing bike (with different shifters) is a losing battle. Then you have to ask about the position of the hoods on the bars -- even a small difference here changes the angle your wrist and hand will rest at, not to mention how the handlebar is constructed (traditional, anatomic, semi-anatomic, short and shallow??...)<br />
<br />
I see bike fit as the most important aspect of our relationship with our bikes. It's the best way to make sure a client is happy on the bike, and therefore makes it more likely that they'll continue to ride their bike -- which is the point. There is a significant level of trust that I have with my clients. They have to trust that I'm going to use all of my background as a practicing physical therapist and 16 years experience doing this work with cyclists to make the right decisions to make them as comfortable and efficient as possible on their bike -- trust that I won't frivolously add in new parts that I deem "necessary". I <i>could</i> recommend a lot of add-ons and pad their bill -- I probably have enough trust with my clients where they wouldn't question me if I did, but I couldn't sleep well if I operated that way.<br />
<br />
Many shops (at the urging of bike industry financial advisors) get into bike fitting because it can be a significant revenue stream. I see it differently. My clients aren't portals for parts and accessories I can sell them, I see them as a referral engines as they tell friends and family of the effective, efficient, and well reasoned bike fit they received. <br />
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The benefit of doing fittings on a fit-cycle rather than on the client's own bike, benefits mostly the shop and not the client because it puts more emphasis on new equipment and less emphasis on the careful attention to the position of their contact points. By purposely putting the client on a different saddle, handlebar, seatpost, stem, etc it becomes easy to reinforce the "need" to change these parts (and therefore sell more stuff). <br />
<br />
As an example, let's take a look at the saddle. Assume that a client is placed on a fit cycle in a new position and they have a saddle that differs from the one on their existing bike. The new position (on the fit cycle), and by extension the saddle, may be more comfortable and/or efficient (or at least it should be) so it becomes easy to convince a trusting client that they need this new saddle.<br />
<br />
Cha-ching! <br />
<br />
It sounds reasonable enough too -- the client is more comfortable so it makes sense to have their bike set up differently and to put this saddle under them, right? But remember there are <i>at least</i> two changes that occurred here -- the saddle (or handlebars or shifter hoods or pedals/cleats) is positioned differently, <b>AND</b> the saddle is a new model. Speaking specifically about saddles, about 75% of the time the saddle itself isn't the problem (nor the solution). Rather its the position of the saddle that ends up fixing the problem. This fact is easy to obscure from a client when doing a fit on a fit cycle though and often they can easily be talked into buying the new saddle even when just applying this new position to their existing bike (and leaving the new saddle on the shelf) would do the trick. This same method can be applied to other components on the bike to convince a client they need new stuff. Not cool.<br />
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This trickery aside, my main point that its impossible to accurately fit someone on components that don't match the ones on their bike, is the main limitation to the "fit-cycle bike fit". All those minute and millimetric variations make a difference and limit the effectiveness of a fit this way. <br />
<br />
<br />
Now you know why its best to get fit for your bike....<b>while on <i>your</i> bike!</b><br />
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<br /></div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-9580587739072956342013-02-01T13:25:00.002-08:002013-02-01T13:25:48.796-08:00SRAM XX1 setup tip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Z3mMkUvWYpT680UavDhZcXxb-i2rLSLnPHgHwF2jeQmPipbyLMXZWbCyVuEB9rUnAWoCUJulmks2Q8163VuXG2Qx5hL9M2qmjZyG68cwuGfo65Ky3UPk8ayjXia-MIAy0r4KWg4ViWZG/s1600/IMG_3137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Z3mMkUvWYpT680UavDhZcXxb-i2rLSLnPHgHwF2jeQmPipbyLMXZWbCyVuEB9rUnAWoCUJulmks2Q8163VuXG2Qx5hL9M2qmjZyG68cwuGfo65Ky3UPk8ayjXia-MIAy0r4KWg4ViWZG/s640/IMG_3137.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Actually there will be two tips I learned but for the second one I will post a video soon about that.<br />
<br />
This tip is more of a testament to SRAM drivetrains. I've always been a fan of "low tension" systems. Meaning that the required amount of cable tension to actuate a clean shift is not very high. Low tension systems are easy to set up, don't come out of tune nearly as often, and overall provide fewer hassles.<br />
<br />
Campy road groups certainly fit in this group -- when you hook up the rear derailleur cable with just light hand tension, it usually requires only a couple quarter turns of the barrel adjusters to get things lined out.<br />
<br />
The SRAM XX1 system takes this to new lengths. Usually when I get a shifter I make sure the barrel adjuster is dialed all the way in because I always have to add a little tension once I have the cable hooked up. The XX1 shifter (in this case a twist shifter) was dialed out about 4 or 5 full turns, so I dutifully dialed it in as usual. I quickly found out that I almost couldn't hook up the cable loose enough to begin with. After freeing the cable from the derailleur, I returned the barrel adjusters to about 4 turns out, lightly hooked up the cable again, <b><i>and then needed to remove tension by dialing the barrel adjuster in a couple of turns to get it shifting smoothly</i></b>.<br />
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First time for everything I guess.</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-80919820701305980062012-12-09T14:56:00.001-08:002012-12-09T14:56:37.427-08:00How do I do threshold training with heart rate only?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqsDDg_Qj1RJ_wk4NDm3UcXDBnctHjlEVOlkBTGC96e20LGG80onmmY5qrRVjehnEbhFoSS6cPt7Lk2JkbnqFGBx9pifssuX7j3EukeqnfaWMJbSRDxr02_hUKDX9ReZstJstzO9BZ6Q69/s1600/006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqsDDg_Qj1RJ_wk4NDm3UcXDBnctHjlEVOlkBTGC96e20LGG80onmmY5qrRVjehnEbhFoSS6cPt7Lk2JkbnqFGBx9pifssuX7j3EukeqnfaWMJbSRDxr02_hUKDX9ReZstJstzO9BZ6Q69/s400/006.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, clearly not working hard enough on a climb since I was able to snap this picture</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Should I shoot for 80% or 85% of my max heart rate? And where should I start to get my max heart rate? </span><br />
<br />
<br />
To answer your question about threshold heart rate, I think shooting for
85% is the best way to move forward. To do this, you need to have a
good conception of your max though, which can be difficult. You could do
220 minus your age but this is really a vague approximation. What I've
done is go here:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.brianmac.co.uk/maxhr.htm" target="_blank">http://www.brianmac.co.uk/<wbr></wbr>maxhr.htm</a><br />
<br />
and
use the calculator at the bottom, and it'll give you a max HR based on a
bunch of different methods. Start with the highest result and
calculate 85% of that.<br />
<br />
Why start at the top end?<br />
<br />
That's the most important factor in all
of this....the reason you want to start at the top (even with the
possibility that you may over-shoot) is because there is very little
penalty for going too hard whereas going too easy puts you closer in
smack dab in the middle of the "gray zone" which is a waste of your
time. If you overshoot and can't hold the effort for the prescribed
threshold interval (let's say 15 minutes) then you've still worked hard
at an above-threshold intensity and the trickle-down theory of training
applies. Meaning you still improved your threshold efficiency, except
perhaps in not exactly the way you wanted to (you didn't get the
duration in you were hoping for).<br />
<br />
But you didn't under-shoot which will not boost your threshold or above-threshold power as the over-shoot would.<br />
<br />
If
you over-shoot, then the next interval (or next threshold workout) just
bring the effort level down a beat or two and go from there.</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-11431714760693681272012-12-03T12:59:00.000-08:002012-12-03T12:59:54.756-08:00Custom crafted handlebars<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Ever get numb hands or fingers on a ride? Of course you have.....I'm sure nearly every cyclist has experienced on some level a bit of hand wonkiness while out on a longer ride. <br />
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You can understand then that hand placement, pressure, and grip are addressed on every bike fit I do. In truth, some clients will NEVER see a complete resolution of their hand symptoms. Some (somewhere in the vicinity of "many" or "most") will have 100% improvement and have no issues after a fitting, and the rest will experience a reduction in the problem but the numbness won't go away 100%.<br />
<br />
<br />
The shape of your handlebars plays a huge role in the pressure on your hands. Round bars ensure that your hand will always be resting on a pressure point where a large portion of weight is assumed through a very small surface area of the hand. Remember "tangents" from geometry class?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj12PhklcJFw1z0VDXHGofZ0WpNFkIWHzhanjZI8fjoHopc7yjC8a2fu8kAE9CG_oXgst_1jyZGKS-wKlVhCz9ETTJIYtlnawEcXB0IweoOMEDeBG2fR_O4CxtkDc20HTvAEilb4qB5tsOh/s1600/tangents.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj12PhklcJFw1z0VDXHGofZ0WpNFkIWHzhanjZI8fjoHopc7yjC8a2fu8kAE9CG_oXgst_1jyZGKS-wKlVhCz9ETTJIYtlnawEcXB0IweoOMEDeBG2fR_O4CxtkDc20HTvAEilb4qB5tsOh/s320/tangents.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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The round profile of a bar profile a point where our hands will contact with greater force than the areas around it. Which isn't to say that this HAS to cause problems, just that it can increase the likelihood of problems. </div>
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Some carbon bars address this problem with a new shape -- the ellipse.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTJK3UowXDsQ9oeHqz4SA8CHEKenrsTRZdEw2hwnxuvzjYvwtzwEHr9fjfKjJOLqT-NyNhpdp6M3cNEZB2eown81JEGnAtQyzGDLB-oTobkgjmdjqwhDxWaIirR2Ke8I4XITBcT3D6GxL/s1600/tangent+ellipse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTJK3UowXDsQ9oeHqz4SA8CHEKenrsTRZdEw2hwnxuvzjYvwtzwEHr9fjfKjJOLqT-NyNhpdp6M3cNEZB2eown81JEGnAtQyzGDLB-oTobkgjmdjqwhDxWaIirR2Ke8I4XITBcT3D6GxL/s320/tangent+ellipse.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The ellipse provides a blunted surface where we can more effectively distribute hand pressure. But the ellipse needs to be oriented at a very specific angle in order to help and so this limits how you can orient your handlebar -- depending on how you prefer your drops or hood positions this may require you to orient the ellipse at an angle that isn't taking advantage of its ergonomic shape. We run into this problem many times when setting up shaped carbon handlebars -- the kinds you commonly see out there with flat surfaces on top by the stem or at the bend of the bar before you reach the hoods.</div>
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Add that to the fact that you can easily spend $300-$400 on a set of carbon handlebars, and you get the reason I've been looking for a way to take a normal round bar and add some material to it to shape it into an ellipsoid or custom surface.</div>
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I have in the past used a few different materials to accomplish this. I've tried the commercially available pads like the Fizik gel pads and and the foam wrap from Aztec, but neither seemed to tick all the boxes. The gel pads could only be laid over the bar and so did little to change the shape of the bar and often the gel padding ended up in places where it wasn't doing nearly enough good. The Aztec foam compresses down over time too much and it doesn't provide a lot in the way of options in order to orient the padding in a user-specific way.</div>
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I've also meticulously taken extra bar tape and cut it into strips, and taped and taped and taped it into varying thicknesses over the contour of the bar so that it exhibited something close to the shape I wanted. But this takes so much time and it's still limited in the shapes I can get out of it.</div>
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So I was really excited when I found a product that I could take and mold onto a client's handlebars in a way that allowed me to fully customize how their hands attach to their bars. It doesn't cost a fortune and I've been able to come up with some custom treatments for our handlebars, some of which are:</div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>median and/or ulnar nerve decompression</li>
<li>arthritic CMC joint(s) (base of the thumb) </li>
<li>global hand/wrist arthritis issues</li>
<li>riders with exceptionally small hands reaching the brake levers or finding comfortable positions</li>
<li>riders with large hands finding comfortable positions on the hoods</li>
<li>providing a proper platform so that we can place a gel pad in such a way that we get the full benefit of the padding </li>
</ul>
</div>
It's pretty exciting because the sky is the limit with this....I can take nearly any hand-handlebar interface problem and come up with a way to in some way improve it.<br />
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Here are a few pictures of one really basic preparation I did from start to finish:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhakZf7T2Nejmj-ieFiwCUhcxhVnG8-3U8Xz4ZlnEwRVc-yioTKLr5Aca1_MHVtQa62tE-prFbqfGvIZrTxlWuBfY2vR-rqj8uk3k49jTaCQ3vIIWKhf_yxOH8kvM7qXLQeo6hg3l2uN3je/s400/IMG_2986.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Plain Ritchey Pro bar wrapped in tape" width="225" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plain Ritchey Pro bar wrapped in tape</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTDrJ2uJYBAOygDFMOLwJzZXw_dtNWAeRE-Xx_VZU7P_0TeIdq8OSZ2MFEvSpUDJClRMGMoyCuqwYV2k_Va7lPCi_VT33PudfPuVv56XQmIqbl-e0WDOK0eJYxerQkGi7o08iNRXbEYMx/s1600/IMG_2894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTDrJ2uJYBAOygDFMOLwJzZXw_dtNWAeRE-Xx_VZU7P_0TeIdq8OSZ2MFEvSpUDJClRMGMoyCuqwYV2k_Va7lPCi_VT33PudfPuVv56XQmIqbl-e0WDOK0eJYxerQkGi7o08iNRXbEYMx/s400/IMG_2894.JPG" title="Stage 1" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Added the blue to provide digit rests when on tops; red flattens and widens the bends; yellow provides a rest for the palm when on the drops.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBv9FPobuqoT_dDBSStOLNCnzjTHwd2W3Yq4_2k7UkrYK25XQhQuESoRbM8QNGpLDSqtOtMIQTl8OCBGVwlXNz22M9f_-B2TPm663mHqSLxWg_a8sG-x18qOJbpysJuLrAQGnsUqFuFg7/s1600/IMG_2896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBv9FPobuqoT_dDBSStOLNCnzjTHwd2W3Yq4_2k7UkrYK25XQhQuESoRbM8QNGpLDSqtOtMIQTl8OCBGVwlXNz22M9f_-B2TPm663mHqSLxWg_a8sG-x18qOJbpysJuLrAQGnsUqFuFg7/s320/IMG_2896.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3DqBT_5btqb0l3T0CDhwpQBcUIQhyphenhyphenLfaEegMhm8bBtmbqbT07rRgnV7s9cfd26CztUjZk3xv6To7OXGUPnB5Ia8I140Cj6YxUnOb_BbV2L26X_f6lxmLow9d0exN4dK2RFjFZ68Fls1T/s1600/IMG_2897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Stage 2" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3DqBT_5btqb0l3T0CDhwpQBcUIQhyphenhyphenLfaEegMhm8bBtmbqbT07rRgnV7s9cfd26CztUjZk3xv6To7OXGUPnB5Ia8I140Cj6YxUnOb_BbV2L26X_f6lxmLow9d0exN4dK2RFjFZ68Fls1T/s320/IMG_2897.JPG" title="Stage 2" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Added more black, blue, and red to further flatten and deepen the entire top of the bar.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYX8d7e6Mr14IAHoFjHAyLk-9Crqzzw-Tw0wOrduAX1nBz4isNqi_zFF2kR15wC3Y8GuFIT-OTw8LQ8KgA6szpWmQGewQLKE6FUndI88jGm_7Q1-Wa9FZ8Imi7lKkJtX7nsSHztHOxotO/s1600/IMG_2899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Stage 2" border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYX8d7e6Mr14IAHoFjHAyLk-9Crqzzw-Tw0wOrduAX1nBz4isNqi_zFF2kR15wC3Y8GuFIT-OTw8LQ8KgA6szpWmQGewQLKE6FUndI88jGm_7Q1-Wa9FZ8Imi7lKkJtX7nsSHztHOxotO/s320/IMG_2899.JPG" title="Stage 2" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">~3 cm wide at bend. Areas close to the hoods like this, I can make a recess for the brake and shifter housing so that you don't get that annoying bump right where your hands rest when on the hood.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1BOsImqvwy-SPjT-RTR8xBkfQU7A7AYfHao_TKrQkZwLqCmvOuHRQEEP-V_2rT7avnIGLlqdIcPF2gwt9LpabYzHqSAMyjUcXXVYk-sVRGYmkGiEOO_gGrbpl3ZRwQGICz0vIbnQ72Xg/s1600/IMG_2898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1BOsImqvwy-SPjT-RTR8xBkfQU7A7AYfHao_TKrQkZwLqCmvOuHRQEEP-V_2rT7avnIGLlqdIcPF2gwt9LpabYzHqSAMyjUcXXVYk-sVRGYmkGiEOO_gGrbpl3ZRwQGICz0vIbnQ72Xg/s320/IMG_2898.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost 4 cm deep on the flats</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbX-QBIL1F2iXv0wGgf6LzPrc2WtPdLFQeliwVcwy5dpKjViS41VfIQ9RX-wW6Mras8Oz3-eOlBVVvyzL_jKIZWiJD8lfyTP7fWgmdoVEahNS8tF4ngP6XNmh0cw0ybskj8IWQ0pYvvA0Z/s1600/IMG_2985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Stage 3" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbX-QBIL1F2iXv0wGgf6LzPrc2WtPdLFQeliwVcwy5dpKjViS41VfIQ9RX-wW6Mras8Oz3-eOlBVVvyzL_jKIZWiJD8lfyTP7fWgmdoVEahNS8tF4ngP6XNmh0cw0ybskj8IWQ0pYvvA0Z/s320/IMG_2985.JPG" title="Stage 3" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once wrapped, the bar has a much different shape than when we started.</td></tr>
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All told it adds about 35 grams per side or about 2 ounces total. This material adheres exceptionally well to anodized aluminum.<br />
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This was a very generic example, but the great thing is this "clay" allows me to make nearly any shape or contour I want. <br />
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Of course, my clients that come in for bike fittings can just have
this done right here in the Studio, but those out of town (or country)
can ship me their handlebar with the hoods installed. That way I can
make the additions you'll need and leave channels for the shifter
housings.<br />
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Cost runs $75 to $150 depending on what's required, so if you're having hand or wrist problems on the bike there is undoubtedly something we can do about it.<br />
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-21879778004706063602012-11-27T11:10:00.000-08:002012-11-27T11:13:15.472-08:00Kudos to Cyclingnews.com<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Bike industry mags and websites often do reviews of bikes and components, and 98% of the time they're worthless. Wanna know how I know? Because they rarely, if ever, say anything negative, and if they do, they couch it in some platitude that seemingly spins it as a positive or at least neutral.<br />
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I understand why this is. It's not hard to see the score of the game.....these sites and magazines rely on sponsors -- the very companies whose bikes they're reviewing -- and they don't want to drive the money away. That's why when I see a pretty honest review with actual negatives listed in it I get a warm glow-ey feeling inside.<br />
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Kudos to <a href="http://cyclingnews.com/">Cyclingnews.com</a> for their<a href="http://www.cyclingnews.com/reviews/felt-edict-nine-ltd-review" target="_blank"> review of the new Felt Edict 29er full suspension</a>. They go into detail on the bike's short-comings that start with it's poor front end geometry (which Felt is not alone on -- <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=788299658222970244#editor/target=post;postID=7546596694194175711" target="_blank">many/most 29er manufacturers screw this up</a>) and end at some of the part choices.<br />
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It happens so infrequently that I thought it was worth mentioning....</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-37576608212114552302012-11-25T13:21:00.000-08:002012-11-25T13:21:37.628-08:00Do as your mother says and sit straight!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Bicycles are symmetric, carefully designed objects......sometimes as meticulously crafted as aerospace parts. It is this symmetry that ensures they handle well and are balanced. Most carbon bikes are made from moulds and so the integrity and alignment of the rear dropouts, the seat tube, and the head tube is maintained at all costs with these clamshell-like devices. Welded metal bikes are assembled on expensive jigs that ensure the same alignment. From there, fork steerer tubes, stems, and handlebars are equally symmetric.<br />
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All of this is done to make sure that a rider's weight is draped evenly over the bike. That way the left hand is the same distance from the frame as the right, as are the knees, hips, and shoulders.<br />
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Balanced body makes for a balanced rider. Makes sense, right? It stands to reason that your body is bisected by the bike itself. It sounds logical, but unfortunately, for the vast majority of us, it's not true.<br />
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The truth is that while our hands and feet are placed symmetrically on the bike (the right and left foot are situated on the pedals in nearly exactly the same spot on opposite sides of the center-line of the bike and same goes for the hands), roughly 75% of the population does not sit square on their saddle -- meaning we are shifted off to one side of the saddle, so effectively our hips, knees, and likely our shoulders are skewed to one side. On-the-bike infrared measurements (Retul) make discovering this fairly easy as long as you know what you're looking at. <br />
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To further complicate the matter, a large portion of riders sit with one hip further forward, but that's another article for another time.<br />
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<i>[I know there are some of you out there asking "a leg length discrepancy can cause that, right?...can't that be the culprit of this skewed sitting posture?" Sometimes, but not as often as you'd think. You see often (I don't have firm numbers on this one, but in my experience about 50% of the time) a rider's leg length discrepancy doesn't come through on the bike as you'd expect it to -- i.e. a longer right leg should "push" the rider to the left so that the shorter left leg can more easily reach the pedals. Chalk this up to not being able to rely on simple mechanics when you're talking about pedaling a bike since no other task involves being attached to a machine in five spots as well as the more complicated neurological process mentioned below.]</i><br />
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How to remedy the derriere shift?<br />
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Since the bike won't accommodate us by having the saddle placed off to the side (moving the seat off-center so that it's under the skewed hips) we have to find a way to bring the rider back closer to being aligned with the bike.<br />
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In order to come up with a proper fix, we need to know why most of us can't keep our butt on the saddle squarely. The answer lies deep within our brain, where our most basic motor impulses come from. You see most of us, despite whether we're right or left handed are "wired" to favor our right side. So most (in the ballpark of 60%-70%) of those riders shifted off to one side of their saddle are shifted to the right.<br />
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First inclination would be to just force yourself to sit towards the center -- if the infrared shows you're in fact sitting to the right then you could just consciously sit further to the left. And off you go, right? Well, no. Problem is that conscious corrections really don't get you very far because you can't "attend" to this left-sitting posture for an entire ride and you'll end up gravitating back to the right especially as you work harder on challenging terrain. You've done very little to change the motor plan and so the problem will persist.<br />
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No, the best and lasting way to fix this is to get the weak side engaged more. Again, more of us are wired right-dominant and we're likely to never fully change this but if we can make a small improvement in the weak side's proprioception, strength, and/or coordination we'll make a dent in the problem.<br />
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Most of my client's leave their bike fit appointment with a combination of fixes to work on the problem. Often these include some drills (on and off the bike) to improve the weak side's coordination -- even some dry land balance exercises can occasionally make an impact. Flexibility work may help improve the ease of the pedal stroke and make a small impact. Most often, and in my experience most effective, are cleat position changes to improve the weak side's proprioception --
literally how that side senses and feels the pedal and pedal-stroke.<br />
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In all these ways we can engage that weak side and the result is then the rider begins to gravitate more toward the center of the bike. The rider won't just pop right back to dead center on that first bike fit, nor should we shoot for that. I usually shoot for a 30%-40% shift back toward center that first day -- getting more than that increases the chances of us over-correcting and creating a problem elsewhere.<br />
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A recent bike fit showed that the client was shifted to the right so their overall deviation from the center was in the 72-74 mm range (meaning that their right side was measured roughly 36 mm further from their centerline and the left side was around 36 mm towards their centerline. After a few changes on the bike, including some cleat changes that 72-74 mm deviation was down to 47-49 mm. Not perfect but better. From there I can instruct the rider on exercises that are tailored to their particular deficits in order to keep the rider working on their imbalances.<br />
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Once the client leaves and does their first 10-12 rides in this position their affected soft tissues (muscles, tendons, fascia, etc.) will have an easier time progressively adjusting to this new posture because we didn't try to over-correct them the first time.<br />
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When client's follow up after about a dozen rides it's most common to see that they are now about 70% improved in their alignment. Usually if they didn't make any progress from here they would still be in good shape....it's unlikely we'd make someone 100% symmetric on the bike anyway but negative stresses on the body are limited long before the 70% threshold.<br />
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If you have aches and pains on the bike and you're not sure where they come from or if you just want to make sure you're not losing any efficiency being off kilter, then come in to get checked out.<br />
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Sometimes you can see some of this shift just from looking at a rider's hips from behind. Have any pictures that show you or a riding buddy sitting off-center? Send them in <a href="mailto:thebicyclestudio@gmail.com" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-36532975645726233492012-11-15T10:34:00.001-08:002012-11-15T10:37:05.669-08:00Wilier Cento1 SR<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-72254511973509649772012-11-15T10:17:00.000-08:002012-11-15T10:17:30.451-08:00Wilier Zero.9<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-18836583290752359772012-10-25T08:06:00.001-07:002012-10-25T08:06:46.743-07:00Training zones - 3 may be enough<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Training is a funny thing. At once, it's a process that's really complex and extraordinarily simple all at the same time. It's very difficult to take an athlete and a timeline to a given race, and make everything go well so that they perform at their best at that race, but at the heart of the process is a very simple equation:<br />
<br />
Stress + Rest = Fitness. And repeat.<br />
<br />
This equation represents the building blocks of training, but it's assembling those blocks where the difficulty comes in. Some of the blocks will be bigger, some smaller, and orienting them so that an athlete's weaknesses are worked on -- all the while bringing their fitness along in a way that is specific to the race they plan on doing, takes time and experience.<br />
<br />
Training zones, whether they relate to heart rate or power (on the bike) are the fundamental part of the building blocks....of that rudimentary (stress + rest = fitness) equation, and, again, putting an athlete through these zones at particular times, on particular days, for particular durations, is where the complexity lies.<br />
<br />
I've noticed from working with my athletes that have come from another coach to me that many coaches don't approach it this way....they treat the organizing of workouts as a very simple, broad process -- training periods are very long, and poorly defined at times, but then they inject complexity into it by creating a whole bunch of training zones. I've seen as many as twelve but often you'll see them broken down into 6 or more levels, like:<br />
<br />
Recovery: the intensity to train at for active recovery
<br />
Zone 1: Optimum fat usage<br />
Zone 2: Endurance<br />
Zone 3: Tempo<br />
Zone 4: Threshold<br />
Zone 5: Anaerobic fitness<br />
<br />
Sometimes
coaches will break the zones down further so that there are seven,
eight, or nine distinct levels. Way too much, in my opinion, and there
is a lot of overlap even with 6 zones -- really, how much difference in
intensity is the "Recovery" zone versus your intensity on your first 4
hour "Endurance" zone ride?<br />
<br />
Athletes, left to their
own devices, almost always train too much at one given intensity --
they gravitate toward "the middle". "The middle" is seductive that way
because it doesn't hurt that much but we still feel like we're working
hard and getting something done. Problem is this virtual no-man's-land
of training is generally a waste of your time if you're training to get
faster and/or more efficient on your bike. Why? Because "the middle"
isn't hard enough to make you faster, but it's just intense enough to
require some recovery time.<br />
<br />
When I coach a cyclist,
especially one who has come to me from a training program heavily
relying on "the middle" (which is most athletes), when we first start, I
exaggerate their training zones by giving them only three zones they
can work in:<br />
<br />
1. Recovery/Easy<br />
2. Threshold<br />
3. Super-duper hard<br />
<br />
Or something along those lines. In my opinion when you create more than 5 zones there is tremendous overlap with them and it really blurs the lines as far as the day to day training goes. The zones should be simplified which can lead to greater specificity in the organization of the day to day training periods. Organizing those workouts around three or four zones allows you to be very clear and focused on what EXACTLY you're working on that day, or that week. It also keeps you out of the middle compared to the 6+ zone method, since as you might imagine all those extra zones come from breaking up the "middle" and the recovery/easy zones into smaller and more obscure parts.<br />
<br />
The
"recovery/easy" level is differentiated only by the duration of a given
ride -- an "easy" ride could be 3 hours long, while a "recovery" ride
could be nearly the same intensity, but only 45 minutes to an hour
long. As we get farther into the training, then I'll often break up the "Recovery/Easy" into two separate pieces, but I don't add in anything else between those zones and threshold since I want my athletes to stay out of that barely sub-threshold zone with extreme prejudice. Limiting their options in this way really makes an athlete
realize that every day has a purpose....every day is meant to do
SOMETHING. <br />
<br />
The only "somethings" we focus on early in the program is
either recovering, building some aerobic baseline (both are
"Recovery/Easy"), working on overall efficiency at threshold
("threshold"), or bumping up efficiency at the very maximal ranges of
gross power and strength ("Super-duper hard"), and we're rarely trying
to work on more than two or perhaps three of these things on any given
training period.<br />
<br />
Incidentally, you may ask what about the "super duper hard" zone? Where is that? In most of my training plans I don't really set specific heart rates or powers for this (sounds strange, I know). The reason I don't is that your intensity on these days is very easy to find, even without a heart rate monitor or a powermeter (although the powermeter can provide a useful "carrot" during them. The intervals on these days, especially early on in the program, are only between 30 seconds and 2 minutes long each and you may do anywhere from 6-20 of them depending on the day. Instructions? Go as hard as you can for one minute, rest during the given recovery or "off" time, and then do it again, and again, and again. You have to keep in the back of your head that you have six, or eight, or twelve of them total to do, but you are literally just riding as hard as you can. You can do this without any specialized equipment (unlike "threshold" workouts, where it can be really useful to have a heart rate monitor or powermeter or both to keep you right on the razor's edge of your threshold zone), although as I mentioned a powermeter can provide a great carrot since you can see what your power is on the first interval and try to stay as close to that for the duration of the intervals. If you can't hold that power and you drop off precipitously then you know you overshot and that will help you on the next day of intervals.<br />
<br />
Another reason I simplify zones, other than
to re-train a client's idea of what it means to train every day is
because I don't believe in bottom-up physiology -- namely I don't
believe you can get faster or more efficient at higher levels of
exertion (like at your anaerobic threshold) by training slow and easy
all the time in the "aerobic range". I believe, especially for the
time-strapped athlete, your time is best spent with a brief dose of very
difficult intervals on some days followed by adequate rest,
interspersed at different times with long endurance days (if your
preferred events require that).<br />
<br />
If your goal is to race
or even to just be more efficient in your local century or group ride,
if you spend all your training time adhering to the lower training zones
of the aerobic training idea you WILL get more efficient.....but only
at that slow pace. If the pace picks up at a race or a climb steepens
on a tour you'll find yourself struggling to maintain and quickly
running out of gas.<br />
<br />
Training at these higher
intensities is incredibly important, even if you don't plan to race
because getting more efficient at higher intensities DOES make you more
efficient at all the intensities below that -- meaning there IS such a
thing as trickle-down physiology.<br />
<br />
This is especially useful for an athlete that has a lot of demands on their time. Those of us that work and have families, etc don't have time to put in 20 hours of base work in a week. I know personally, I need to get a lot of bang for my buck, so even if I'm training for a marathon, I rarely have time to run more than 35 or 40 miles in a week. I use a lot of shorter, faster workouts (especially on the track) in order to bridge the gap. In my experience, personal and with clients, a 75-minute workout with a couple healthy blocks of intervals is worth closer to 120 minutes in a lot of situations.<br />
<br />
So keep it simple.....train hard.....then rest hard....and repeat. Whether you're riding in the local Tuesday-night ride or running an ultra-marathon, training for it doesn't have to be incredibly difficult (but I'd always encourage you to seek help from a skilled coach).<br />
<br />
happy riding (and running) </div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-51827768583607115022012-10-09T07:45:00.003-07:002012-10-09T07:45:32.415-07:00Lab testing vs field testing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We're really lucky to have access here in Grand Junction to a world class lab testing facility at the local university. Just to have have it available is a rare treat.<br />
<br />
You might expect, that since I work with many athletes that I would have them in there every week? Well, not quite.<br />
<br />
While I think the equipment they have is great, I don't use it terribly often. Why, you ask?<br />
<br />
The main reason is that once the test is done and you have the results, sometimes those results are a bit of a dead end once you go home and begin training. <br />
<br />
Let's take one of the most common tests used there, the VO2 (sub or max) test. We can get a lot of information about a rider or runner through the use of this test, but not all of it is usable or meaningful to every athlete.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWolUj54j6K4J7HucCxrWv0hGkPOJu1Z7TfMSpWnd2Gr0FZ2ywMojfy09BRAdDU9fu4L5M_gt1ee1OlxvbzALHbXcjdadp-swVLmQXPPZHXpO7aHQ6bdT2p6Yk7mu3a7Co-j9Jryll26cY/s1600/m+vo2max.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWolUj54j6K4J7HucCxrWv0hGkPOJu1Z7TfMSpWnd2Gr0FZ2ywMojfy09BRAdDU9fu4L5M_gt1ee1OlxvbzALHbXcjdadp-swVLmQXPPZHXpO7aHQ6bdT2p6Yk7mu3a7Co-j9Jryll26cY/s320/m+vo2max.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VO2 max testing can run $75-$150 each session</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For a cyclist, the most useful piece of information you get from this test is your power and heart rate at "threshold". From the test you can then craft your heart rate and power training zones so that you can "train appropriately". Sounds pretty good, and it is on some levels, but the problems are a few:<br />
<br />
1. So now what? <br />
It doesn't tell you how to train though. Your training plan still needs to be set up in a periodized manner so that you train longer or harder or rest depending on where your fitness is and what you need to be working on at that moment. The data doesn't tell you how to organize that, it can just narrow down where your intensity levels lie.<br />
<br />
2. Moving targets<br />
While it's great to be able to quantify your threshold power and heart rate, a major problem is these data points (of power and heart rate) are moving targets and require consistent re-testing to re-set zones and power levels. As you train, your power levels improve and need to be scaled up, which would require another trip to the lab and the shelling out of $75-$150. If you really don't have any trouble spending this every eight weeks or more, then great. But since there is an alternative to doing this that's free and can easily be integrated into your training plan, is it really necessary.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFywQpXFYoO9HbD1asIJj5-8Wl-yuldTeJ9Vf8ExWwZye2X04AlZHp4aWJ7s5FYIwuJK_6irHTW4ZRR-lGFYYXsefy9SVfgt2mtVH1fL5fmaWpCh82-3OUtDbkA_JOFfF5lGdkS-Hc0e2P/s1600/m+quarq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFywQpXFYoO9HbD1asIJj5-8Wl-yuldTeJ9Vf8ExWwZye2X04AlZHp4aWJ7s5FYIwuJK_6irHTW4ZRR-lGFYYXsefy9SVfgt2mtVH1fL5fmaWpCh82-3OUtDbkA_JOFfF5lGdkS-Hc0e2P/s320/m+quarq.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quarq powermeter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
There are many variations, but I use a very simple and repeatable 20-minute field test that can be done to easily find your threshold power and heart rate. Granted if you don't have a power meter it'll require more attention to detail on the heart rate end, but if you don't have a power meter you probably wouldn't benefit drastically from the lab and it's power data anyway, making consistent re-testing a waste. Is this field test going to give us as much information as a VO2 test? Nope, but frankly much of the VO2 data isn't usable on a daily basis, and the field test DOES give us what we need -- a very accurate measurement of what our power and heart rate at threshold are at that time.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvJ7V7L4uCLeOLdG0IRKYuDrTcvMbkTK69NAnCkR1orQJV0zf3Q9A0l6on9cdwEMPT_KcsnSaWqhPUHjRMeTb58HJI7ipc0MU8yMrNl-i4oHCLD1cyNIBFE5E1YNQDYv2x-y9_fYPFKzJ/s1600/metabolic+cart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvJ7V7L4uCLeOLdG0IRKYuDrTcvMbkTK69NAnCkR1orQJV0zf3Q9A0l6on9cdwEMPT_KcsnSaWqhPUHjRMeTb58HJI7ipc0MU8yMrNl-i4oHCLD1cyNIBFE5E1YNQDYv2x-y9_fYPFKzJ/s320/metabolic+cart.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metabolic cart for lab testing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Incidentally, when training with power, once a client gets a baseline of information on how I want them to train and we begin to integrate occasional field tests, it gets very apparent when power zones need to be adjusted and by how much. There is so much consistent data coming from today's power meters that if you pay attention to it on the right days, you can easily stay on top of your training and get a very accurate blueprint for how the next few weeks of training should go.<br />
<br />
So I really don't have a grudge against the local lab -- actually I like very much the people that work there. And frankly, I've had clients that just really want to get tested in the lab, to some extent for the "cool" factor. I've often brought them in for an initial early season test which we can then set our first training zones from that session. After that first test, most clients then opt to just run the field tests since they can be done easily, consistently, and with a lot of accuracy.<br />
<br />
So, I love the lab -- very grateful to have access to it -- but it's just not something I need to use every day.</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-35665130218551647202012-10-01T14:22:00.000-07:002012-10-01T14:22:44.238-07:00More "women's specific" mythologizing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So it seems the women's specific myth isn't going away any time soon, unfortunately. It doesn't seem to be discriminating between road or mountain bikes either, as a few more femme bikes have been released for the dirt.<br />
<br />
I certainly have nothing against bikes made specifically for women....certainly my years spent fitting bikes and building custom rides has made me acutely aware that a bespoke bike (and all it's parts) makes for the most enjoyable ride possible. I can appreciate wanting a bike a certain color -- not every woman is going to want the black or red or black/red bikes that predominate the industry. <br />
<br />
Much of the bike market's marketing for women's specific bikes talks of ladies' special body measurements that require a bike made differently from a man's. I have seen the different manufacturers reference frequently, and contradictorily, that women have:<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li> longer torsos relative to their height, </li>
<li> sometimes shorter torsos as well ;-)</li>
<li> shorter arm reach</li>
<li> longer reach relative to their torso length (??)</li>
<li> longer inseam </li>
<li> surprise! shorter inseam as well!</li>
</ul>
Confused yet? Me too.<br />
<br />
Let's look at some facts:<br />
<br />
There have been thousands of studies going back hundreds of years, in the field of anthropometrics (<span class="st"> the science dealing with measurement of the size, weight, and proportions of the human body). Many of the studies will have an "N" value (meaning how many participants were studied -- generally more is better) in the thousands or tens of thousands. We have really good data on this, and you could (and people do) write thousands of pages on all the comparisons. </span><br />
<br />
<span class="st">I pulled some data from a University of Rhode Island study back in 2009 that was updated just in the spring of 2012. To keep it simple, we'll just look at the data from one main table that measures: Stature (overall height), eye height, mid-shoulder height, waist height, sitting height, buttocks height, eye height (sitting), upper arm length, lower arm + hand length, upper leg length, and lower leg length. They're broken down into male and female groups with percentiles from the 5th to the 95th -- 95th represents the tallest while the 5th percentile represents the shorties.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="st">Keep in mind that when you're study includes thousands of test subjects you're going to find the best way to measure them so that it's simple, clinically applicable and simple/fast. So these measurements weren't taken off X-rays, MRI or other super-accurate (and expensive method). Rather these were taken with simple measuring rigs and tape measures and so the dimensions measured are different sometimes than you would expect....for example torso length is measured with the subject sitting on a flat surface, and the measurement is taken from the seat of the "chair" up to the top of their sternum, so it includes the pelvis and thorax.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="st">Still, we can get a good idea of what the data shows.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="st">So without belaboring this too much this is what their findings say:</span><br />
<br />
<span class="st">(As a percentage of their overall body height) </span><br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span class="st">Torso length</span></h4>
<br />
<span class="st">5th% percentile</span><br />
<span class="st">males -- 35.5% - so their torso makes up roughly 35% of their total height</span><br />
<span class="st">females -- 34.2% </span> <br />
<br />
95th%<br />
males -- 34.5%<br />
females -- 35.3%<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Buttocks height</h4>
5th%<br />
males -- 46.2%<br />
females -- 45.5%<br />
<br />
95th%<br />
males -- 49.1%<br />
females -- 48.3%<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Upper Arm length</h4>
5th%<br />
males -- 33.8%<br />
females -- 35.0%<br />
<br />
95th%<br />
males -- 35.3%<br />
females -- 36.4%<br />
<br />
This is by no means a comprehensive list of all the measurements they took -- they had many more. I just grabbed a smattering of them as a representative sample. <br />
<br />
So let's put some of this into perspective....when considering any of these measurements, while there are differences, I'm not seeing any earth-shattering differences that would make me think you could, in any sort of reliable or useful way, manipulate a stock bicycle's frame geometry to match a certain rider, male or female, even if everyone followed the averages expressed in this study, which of course almost no one will (more on this later)<br />
<br />
As an example, for upper arm length we see one of the larger differences between the male and female measurements -- 1.2%. This represents an actual difference of around half a centimeter, or about the thickness of two nickels.<br />
<br />
Furthermore the differences are a mixed bag -- when a leg measurement favors on gender in the 5th percentile, that same measurement may be greater (again, slightly) for the other gender in the 95th percentile.....or vice versa.<br />
<br />
I looked at the tallest and shortest of the gender, but the results were the same in the middle heights -- consistently close and inconsistently favoring one side then the other.<br />
<br />
And as I mentioned before, these are averages and small deviations on any measurement are blended in but will be minimized. A female may fall into the 50th percentile for height and leg length but have arm lengths that fall into the 65th percentile. <br />
<br />
I recently had a male client, with moderate flexibility, who stood about 6'4" tall (193 cm) with a 37.5" inseam. I've had a few clients built like this and most of them really did better on a custom geometry bike because their relatively short torso and middling flexibility restricted their handlebar position. What differed about this client was his arm reach. He had arm lengths of a man many inches taller, which made it much easier for him to reach his handlebars even if they were in a longer or lower position than we normally see with someone with his torso length. <br />
<br />
Something to consider is that these deviations from the norm -- like his extended arm reach -- aren't uncommon. Not when you consider that 66% of people fall outside of one-half standard deviation from the average (while 32% fall greater than one full standard deviation away).<br />
<br />
So now......given these small variations in the "averages" and the vast potential for deviations from these averages, how useful do you think it would be to alter the geometry of bike in order to fit one sex or the other better?<br />
<br />
Add to that all the natural variations we see outside of body segment lengths, like flexibility and strength, and you have a nearly impossible task. I know this makes it seem like it would be impossible to create a stock bike that fits ANYONE, when in fact standard sizes tend to work out okay for many (but not most) riders out there. Those riders that they work well for are fortunate to have been born into close proximity of the average measurements. This fortunate phenomenon is less common if your overall height is on the high or low end of the charts -- bike designs for the very big and very little are still lacking.<br />
<br />
So how well do stock bikes fit the masses? <br />
<br />
In my experience about 25% of the population fits them with little or no changes to the bike. <br />
<br />
A full 50% require changes to bike parts that I would consider "significant" in nature. <br />
<br />
What's "significant"? An example would be requiring a stem with a rise above 15 degrees. Often riders require multiple changes -- bar reach and height accommodations AND cleat and saddle adaptations as well. A simpler definition would be any change that's likely to affect the overall balance or handling adversely. Now, a 20 degree rise stem wouldn't render a bike unrideable, but it will be a compromise....the bike won't steer or handle the way the geometry was designed for, and the rider's overall balance and weight distribution will be "off" which can lead to many small issues (for instance, not being able to settle comfortably on a saddle, incomplete engagement of some of the more powerful leg muscles, or more weight on one or more contact points).</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-89796792848481400992012-09-20T08:21:00.000-07:002012-09-20T08:21:14.014-07:00Seven Cycles 622 SLX<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
You know what they say about pictures, so these should be worth a few hundred thousand words at least.....<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA028_3Ix7Z-O1CpPe4tRKDUXvfccCK8Exk0IYrYKLzOu357sgcL1nazh9YOhzrvIWvsc7EbtB2BemaiLNY8XZjzHdsyV4MWdcPn5rXTAuJ6ENT8LxUQPxuDfxUD6rafIKbKIPHxuEPC3H/s1600/IMG_2730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA028_3Ix7Z-O1CpPe4tRKDUXvfccCK8Exk0IYrYKLzOu357sgcL1nazh9YOhzrvIWvsc7EbtB2BemaiLNY8XZjzHdsyV4MWdcPn5rXTAuJ6ENT8LxUQPxuDfxUD6rafIKbKIPHxuEPC3H/s400/IMG_2730.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-839483903187109502012-08-30T09:30:00.000-07:002012-08-30T09:30:04.277-07:00Lenz Mammoth -- my "PT Barnum" bike<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So, I know the red silicone grips are a bit much, but I couldn't resist. Hence the "PT Barnum" moniker -- it has a circus feel to it.<br />
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Usual suspects on the build: White Brothers Loop 140 fork, Fox CTD rear shock, SRAM X.9 (with an X.0 bit here and there, Answer Pro Taper AM carbon handlebar.<br />
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This time around I just used some Sun Ringle Charger wheels for display -- not the lightest wheelset, but they licensed the Stan's rim profile so they tubeless great. Couldn't resist the Schwalbe shoes on the bike -- I'm particularly impressed with the "Hans Dampf" on the front. It's a good, stout tire but it rolls well and this one came in at 870 grams -- which feels downright XC-like when you've been riding an 1100 gram Descent.<br />
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Enjoy.<br />
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-91530993079239668202012-08-27T16:04:00.001-07:002012-08-27T16:04:31.633-07:00End of Summer Discounts: Wilier-Triestina, BMC, Lenz Sport<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<u style="color: purple;"><span style="font-size: large;">Moving last year's bikes; Retul bike fitting still included with every bike</span></u></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;">I have a couple of DEMO BIKES left that will be going at even steeper discounts (even a 29er or two -- actually 6).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.bicyclestudiogj.com/" target="_blank">Call</a> or <a href="mailto:thebicyclestudio@gmail.com" target="_blank">email</a> with any questions </span></span>:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjCK_w5P11aGqeEVFM6dY_YrR0j1DI-LhA_aJdEldPVXXzpojDsPdHcMn_lcBZP17587aKoP6urlr29qVHZAzQhvO4XD2Fn2YkrSHqXJeq1c_jHV6OLKs4CSUhWncs7ZeYchrcYAUlIC-/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjCK_w5P11aGqeEVFM6dY_YrR0j1DI-LhA_aJdEldPVXXzpojDsPdHcMn_lcBZP17587aKoP6urlr29qVHZAzQhvO4XD2Fn2YkrSHqXJeq1c_jHV6OLKs4CSUhWncs7ZeYchrcYAUlIC-/s640/001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BMC Road Racer, bare gloss carbon finish; I have two of these left, both "54"s (55cm effective top tube [TT])</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho5ujDBjEmtlXCC2O5iJt8Ih0xZsnCbViof-Pbt-zywu_H33uhkLMaTC_b0KtBi2KSZJG19pXtzOEyLmFFtyYb_4e_gHExXHAwpIz-8AnF1kgc0MshlxCTUXV-kzY-xiU2weJIO0dTlLeq/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho5ujDBjEmtlXCC2O5iJt8Ih0xZsnCbViof-Pbt-zywu_H33uhkLMaTC_b0KtBi2KSZJG19pXtzOEyLmFFtyYb_4e_gHExXHAwpIz-8AnF1kgc0MshlxCTUXV-kzY-xiU2weJIO0dTlLeq/s640/001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BMC Speedfox 29, X.0, Easton carbon, Fox fork -- sizes S and M available</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvdyDD-VWQ5jh7gizRy_iRPFOvUSooHUHo0HzOcSEByL75CSjAc8-jLzlLal_o1K8EKJ3GP0Y9leNNxhefzmmPIYxPegzXDEjm4cr5Fl2H5d1BY_Yy5pmIh30a9shU9L1lZAnJ8nRqIuIM/s1600/007+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvdyDD-VWQ5jh7gizRy_iRPFOvUSooHUHo0HzOcSEByL75CSjAc8-jLzlLal_o1K8EKJ3GP0Y9leNNxhefzmmPIYxPegzXDEjm4cr5Fl2H5d1BY_Yy5pmIh30a9shU9L1lZAnJ8nRqIuIM/s640/007+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BMC Road Racer, full Ultegra, size 57 (normally $3600, now $3059)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgighqeM9AjNLq1I2hz4sN14Wa3tcuhJ_rowj_rUh0i9kaLGJaldDoY_z3cuZXTA298dUn_Vtt1raXmD7jW4uTuC4DB3GX5kX3nbwtMMxoe829w44yYjaoaxq-qnKxGTERg1_fYkHrl4-RY/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgighqeM9AjNLq1I2hz4sN14Wa3tcuhJ_rowj_rUh0i9kaLGJaldDoY_z3cuZXTA298dUn_Vtt1raXmD7jW4uTuC4DB3GX5kX3nbwtMMxoe829w44yYjaoaxq-qnKxGTERg1_fYkHrl4-RY/s640/013.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BMC Street Racer - Shimano 105 group, sizes 48 and 51 available for you vertically challenged folks. (not $1799, that's full retail)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLeKckJE6KQJqIHtTJe1p1YaCbn-JQgmx_SkWBcIQIBEDCedIA-zTQssXrbBVXsO4yQRlIjBRAzlLFl_pHOAGl4dLA8KbwHZafrhWMVmoYb7VgHEV4GoZEu22Ip8k8W8OdLalA6SUP9vSw/s1600/018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLeKckJE6KQJqIHtTJe1p1YaCbn-JQgmx_SkWBcIQIBEDCedIA-zTQssXrbBVXsO4yQRlIjBRAzlLFl_pHOAGl4dLA8KbwHZafrhWMVmoYb7VgHEV4GoZEu22Ip8k8W8OdLalA6SUP9vSw/s640/018.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our most popular bike this year, the Wilier-Triestina Gran Toursimo. We've cycled thru a lot of these and I have 2 left, a 55 (nominally a Large) and a 52 (Small)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyhwmlAo-502fHC-q2dP1oBQ6h8qVqVatsG9TI7GAdnQUgSdrYFetGGEQ2RUFtoPUgwCXiYx4pfyOXX5Rvb78BPxuE6HGTFd-3F_22iGBObzri-mqr5HQH15XBCeaOGQfjIGYBySsKo6Nz/s1600/023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyhwmlAo-502fHC-q2dP1oBQ6h8qVqVatsG9TI7GAdnQUgSdrYFetGGEQ2RUFtoPUgwCXiYx4pfyOXX5Rvb78BPxuE6HGTFd-3F_22iGBObzri-mqr5HQH15XBCeaOGQfjIGYBySsKo6Nz/s640/023.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One white Wilier Gran Tourismo left, a 57/58 (X-Large)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywlys4pWSwQZjQPR1_AsUvxq9hiGAZP1jIotTs7ZAEb2NFLgXR1WAJpm4Qgkm6NfGLKXDHdf3da8k1itLg3AbbEUJJ5X5e2NkhUDSq85qo_qY9MCznJlyhMSeS__E8U2iGYooO6KQb6E3/s1600/033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywlys4pWSwQZjQPR1_AsUvxq9hiGAZP1jIotTs7ZAEb2NFLgXR1WAJpm4Qgkm6NfGLKXDHdf3da8k1itLg3AbbEUJJ5X5e2NkhUDSq85qo_qY9MCznJlyhMSeS__E8U2iGYooO6KQb6E3/s640/033.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BMC RaceMachine - size "53" (has a 55 cm effective TT) - this was a demo bike and will be discounted further than some of the others</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLokcT2RhclnJzYVDHdHnaRK-7xg56WnXqyr-Y0Szi3NTx39i3PgRA0_rEgcjuNVrQkePpveqTMqmF86_KWjbTnQJ7srva3JP47KzMC2gKu1wYsjSCsQwtBTwAcq9Gf32v2eJkZ0e92QwR/s1600/007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLokcT2RhclnJzYVDHdHnaRK-7xg56WnXqyr-Y0Szi3NTx39i3PgRA0_rEgcjuNVrQkePpveqTMqmF86_KWjbTnQJ7srva3JP47KzMC2gKu1wYsjSCsQwtBTwAcq9Gf32v2eJkZ0e92QwR/s640/007.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lenz Sport Leviathan; 4.0; Sun Ringle (Stan's) wheels, SRAM X.9 drivetrain, Hayes Stroker disc brakes; full retail $5200, now $4200</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgamHnGwmZHzXjCtosJNWwsVEEMtHPY6R97KlEuTlWsaDWfFO90B49Njtk147ZqPRy2KppF4-1b5e0M6lhJTxSJv2M0NdJVgKIcdHS1ztoN75ef0xCJa10JafR8_FYoFMGUPsI6755vOMEE/s1600/021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgamHnGwmZHzXjCtosJNWwsVEEMtHPY6R97KlEuTlWsaDWfFO90B49Njtk147ZqPRy2KppF4-1b5e0M6lhJTxSJv2M0NdJVgKIcdHS1ztoN75ef0xCJa10JafR8_FYoFMGUPsI6755vOMEE/s640/021.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BMC Team Elite 29; probably one of the best entry level 29er deals out there; solid Shimano SLX build, Rock Shox Recon fork; Hate going over the handlebars? this race ready bike has better geometry than most 29ers out there -- look it up; no 29er should have a head angle steeper than 70 degrees (IMHO)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprp-r68fQyQrLHr66iDRFixAJpOayrmrXKxJhXWKykMc0RNO45ORyWvbwUQl8WI_yvSDlzaUsuB1cYwwoCVo_1rRuL7qbw1WUj5lpJ_OXH3WfJYcTHxetRurEcv7IUDXXu0W_L2WZGv86/s1600/018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprp-r68fQyQrLHr66iDRFixAJpOayrmrXKxJhXWKykMc0RNO45ORyWvbwUQl8WI_yvSDlzaUsuB1cYwwoCVo_1rRuL7qbw1WUj5lpJ_OXH3WfJYcTHxetRurEcv7IUDXXu0W_L2WZGv86/s400/018.JPG" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I have 3 of these left, two Mediums and a Small</td></tr>
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-83231706386829908602012-08-27T08:36:00.001-07:002012-08-27T08:37:44.064-07:00Run blog today<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Even if you're a two-wheeled athlete, I posted on my running blog for anyone interested in speed work -- look for more posts on this as I try to get back on the track and make my slow legs slightly less slow. <br />
<br />
http://experimentalharrier.blogspot.com/2012/08/first-day-of-speed-work-trying-not-to.html</div>
thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-788299658222970244.post-78418753174047098052012-08-19T15:17:00.000-07:002012-08-19T15:17:35.637-07:00What should my next bike buying experience look like?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmE0OQ4NB_CF1VZmQuAkv2U6Px16hMJq7SvdNCh9Hotr1dGDksmgS3Fyhm7dEe_kFe9-ndWNLx7rkEUodQ76-quVadZHnMWbYuB3NwMPvEA2N0zgRCBl8No-P8QFt3fqkY7DbX4LhPaA6P/s1600/022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmE0OQ4NB_CF1VZmQuAkv2U6Px16hMJq7SvdNCh9Hotr1dGDksmgS3Fyhm7dEe_kFe9-ndWNLx7rkEUodQ76-quVadZHnMWbYuB3NwMPvEA2N0zgRCBl8No-P8QFt3fqkY7DbX4LhPaA6P/s400/022.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">It
wasn't too long ago that the normal bike purchase was a pretty quick,
very un-scientific affair. Unfortunately, that is still the
case for a large majority of cyclists.</span></span><br />
<br />
Luckily, in the last 10 or 15 years the bike fitting movement has
led to more engagement during a trip to your local bike shop (LBS),
as well as happier riders.<br />
<br />
What is bike fitting? Essentially it's making sure that a
bike frame and all its component provide an efficient and comfortable
bike ride for the cyclist.<br />
<br />
Who needs one? Well, everyone....especially those that ride
more than once or twice a week. Not everyone needs to spend
hours getting fit, but it wouldn't hurt. A poorly fit bike creates pain, injury, and can even lead to the urge to toss your bike off a bridge overpass.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMrcyVTvDr11bN2YRNsZWeO9BkOZpJ94pUptny-qKn7dq6TYHYBC0nxETYfX5OK5oZhgE2nOSPYYKAfDfDZjZu3LvUpp0blaNEL0EgEjd233KXn4d6kCacSYGtgTnjqA43AhHhpBAgtXa2/s1600/004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMrcyVTvDr11bN2YRNsZWeO9BkOZpJ94pUptny-qKn7dq6TYHYBC0nxETYfX5OK5oZhgE2nOSPYYKAfDfDZjZu3LvUpp0blaNEL0EgEjd233KXn4d6kCacSYGtgTnjqA43AhHhpBAgtXa2/s200/004.JPG" width="200" /></a>At my Studio, every
bike purchase comes with a free bike fit and follow-ups for the first
year, and it's common that we spend 90-120 minutes using infrared
motion capture technology to dial in their position. No, many
cyclists could get by with much shorter appointments and come out not
too much worse for wear, but if you think a poorly fit bike isn't
very common, I would direct you to the 200 or so non-purchase bike
fits I do every year.<br />
<br />
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<br />
So what should a bare-bones fitting consist of?<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
1. Interview - Sit down (yes, sit down....this conversation
shouldn't occur while the employee is wrenching on a bike, or manning
the register) and spend a few minutes explaining how you're going to
ride the bike -- where? how often? type of
terrain? goals for this bike? etc.<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
2. Physical Assessment - The employee doesn't need to have a
degree in exercise physiology or practice as a PT (although, again,
it wouldn't hurt) but they should be able to run you through a few
simple physical tests for flexibility and strength to get even a
vague idea of your abilities.<br />
<br />
3. Bike Assessment - At this stage you should be on the
bike, preferably in riding clothes. Not spinning around the
parking, but rather with the bike set up on an indoor trainer so that
your posture can be viewed for more than a few seconds at a time.
Beware of anyone declaring the fit "good" after just a
minute of watching you. Even just getting the correct saddle
height usually takes a few adjustments to see how you respond to
higher or lower positions, and then handlebar height and reach is
likely to be changed at least once before moving on. <br />
How do you
determine if it's "good"? If you have a fitter who
you are certain is very skilled at bike fitting (not just bike fixing
or selling) you can rely on their expertise some, but they should
always be constantly assimilating the feedback from you based on nothing more than "how it feels." If you
suspect your fitter is just so-so, then you should lobby for spending
as much time on the bike as you can before plunking down the cash.
If you're on the indoor trainer, ask lots of questions, delay a
bit or just ask for more time - tell them to go away for 10 minutes
while you ride. Don't be afraid to ask even for an extended
test ride; some shops let you take the bike overnight and get in an
actual ride.<br />
<br />
<br />
4. Follow-up - Ask if follow up fit sessions, even just
quick tweaks, will be included (for even a few weeks) since you are
likely to find new issues when you spend a full hour on the bike on
varying terrain on the road or trail.<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
All in all this could take anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours,
but think of it as an insurance policy. The better your bike
fits, the more likely you
are to ride your bike....which is the point after all.<br />
<br />
--John Weirath, PT is a (very slow) runner, cyclist, and triathlete that builds and fits bikes to clients one at a time at The Bicycle Studio right here in GJ. // www.bicyclestudiogj.com // 970.255.0055<br />
<br /><br />
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thebicyclestudiohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12878059836120648402noreply@blogger.com0